It's kicking over ok, just not firing.
I'd investigate the red plug on the ECU, Clean it and see if the open circuit goes away.
Also check the plug going into the corner of the head, that might be damaged/not seated properly.
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It's kicking over ok, just not firing.
I'd investigate the red plug on the ECU, Clean it and see if the open circuit goes away.
Also check the plug going into the corner of the head, that might be damaged/not seated properly.
I haven't tried a start yet, you were on the money though. Need to find my socket to look into the ECU.Quote:
Originally Posted by shack
Attachment 184038
It's a torx screw, and usually there isn't any oil in the ECU... Usually.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeJay
I'd try cleaning the plug.
pluck out the gasket first as any solvents will swell it. I use electronic parts cleaner.
Regards PhilipA
I'd also be inclined to change the old injector loom for a new one. With oil already at the plug, then oil has already wicked through it, and it will oil up the plug again soon enough.
There's also the possibility that the loom could be at issue too.
They're not horrendously expensive, and it's a bit of peace of mind.
You could go "whole hog" and pull injectors to do the seals(peace of mind), and if you have the ability get a compression test done too, as it's supposedly overheated or cracked or whatever.
Seals and loom would cost in the low 100s.
I had a pretty good harness from a previous head ( off a accident damaged vehicle) - fitted it, cleaned all the terminals including injectors & ecu, no oil visible now. Cranked her over, same same :bat:, Nanocom says no faults in ecu & not immobilized,Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Surely there would be a rumble or kick? Could a blown head gasket create a no firing event?
Running out of options here. The long term plan was to fit an AMC head, but I need to hear some kind of effort to start or fire up.
Could it be the crank sensor? The thing is this vehicle was running before overheating.
David
I think the nano will show rpm when cranking on the TD5 instruments screen, it should I think, if it doesn't it may be the CPS.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeJay
I'd try firing the injectors manually with the nanocom, can't remember which screen it is on, but you can hear them click if they are working, if you've got ok hearing...
When I got a replacement used head for mine, that had been cleaned and lightly refaced, it came with it's original set of injectors sitting in it, I assumed they would have replaced the o-rings and they hadn't.
Lots of turning over and running the air bleed cycles and also cranking with foot flat to floor and not starting.
Eventually it locked a few times when I tried to kick it over for the umpteenth squillionth (and second battery) time and I think I had filled it with diesel , then after I left it alone for about 20 minutes to let the assumed excess diesel get past the rings and cranked it over again it started with a spluttery idle and thick white smoke then stalled.
I think you need to assume the overheating would not have been kind to any rubber in the head and change the injector o-rings to eliminate that as a problem. Not hard to do I got it right the first time no special tools just a long 6mm allen key and youtube vid.
I hear you that it is not making an effort to fire but neither did mine but I was cranking it over till 1 battery went flat and the second nearly as well and I thought the starter would burn out too before it finally spluttered into half life.
So lots of sentences to say change the o-rings. Process of elimination.
How hot is the thing alleged to have got? Personally, I think the answer to that question would have to be "bloody" before a TD5 would refuse to even give a kick. I'm wondering if the overheat and the non start are actually unrelated and just coincidental. Or, in the course of trying to sort things the seller has disturbed something.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeJay
Back at post #3 I saidQuote:
You've bought a non runner, so it's best not to assume that what you have been told is correct and just start at basics, otherwise you get lost down rabbit holes.
What I meant was don't assume anything. You can wind up with tunnel vision focussing on the "big thing" and overlook what the issue actually is. The seller may have not mentioned something, as he was no doubt frustrated as well.
In post #7 you said the Nano reported Injectors 2,3,5 open circuit (current). In #15 you said Nanocom says no faults in ecu. Does that mean you cleared the faults after cleaning the red plug etc and the fault hasn't returned? Or is the injector fault still recorded?
You also said that the seller replaced the FPR. At the beginning my immediate thought was CPS. To me that is the most likely cause of a TD5 refusing to even kick, and its proximity to the FPR could easily mean that the wiring to the CPS could have been disturbed. So, I'll ask again, is the MIL lit? That's the "check engine light".
PS. Is this an early car? A 10P? If so I believe I may have a spare CPS and ECU you could try for elimination purposes if all else fails.... I'm not all that far from you. Could take me a minute to find them[bigsad]
Al I can add is good luck.
[QUOTE=Tins;3184435]How hot is the thing alleged to have got? Personally, I think the answer to that question would have to be "bloody" before a TD5 would refuse to even give a kick. I'm wondering if the overheat and the non start are actually unrelated and just coincidental. Or, in the course of trying to sort things the seller has disturbed something.
Back at post #3 I saidTins,
What I meant was don't assume anything. You can wind up with tunnel vision focussing on the "big thing" and overlook what the issue actually is. The seller may have not mentioned something, as he was no doubt frustrated as well.
In post #7 you said the Nano reported Injectors 2,3,5 open circuit (current). In #15 you said Nanocom says no faults in ecu. Does that mean you cleared the faults after cleaning the red plug etc and the fault hasn't returned? Or is the injector fault still recorded?
You also said that the seller replaced the FPR. At the beginning my immediate thought was CPS. To me that is the most likely cause of a TD5 refusing to even kick, and its proximity to the FPR could easily mean that the wiring to the CPS could have been disturbed. So, I'll ask again, is the MIL lit? That's the "check engine light".
PS. Is this an early car? A 10P? If so I believe I may have a spare CPS and ECU you could try for elimination purposes if all else fails.... I'm not all that far from you. Could take me a minute to find them[bigsad]
Al I can add is good luck.
Thanks for the offer, yes, its a 10p - 2000 model. I did clear the faults after cleaning all the oil up, I assume cranking only would cause them to reappear, but they haven't. The seller has been in the engine bay as the lifting lug has gone walkabout, but the CPS wiring seems undisturbed. I understand the issue finding the parts, when my garage was at its worst, it took 2 hours to find my Tirfor winch. A friend has offered the loan of an upmarket diagnostic, the Nanocom is not easy to work with, but I would love to borrow those 2 things- I have spare injector copper rings & O rings, so will try them first.
Cheers, David
