Re-placed mine with standard Hella H4 - but the big improvement was fitting a headlight relay. New headlight protectors also helped.
John
guys, what have you done about headlamp replacement? Defender
Anyone got the crystal lamps with H4 globes..if so how much of an improvement? TIA
Re-placed mine with standard Hella H4 - but the big improvement was fitting a headlight relay. New headlight protectors also helped.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
I fitted IPF (would usually go for Hella, but couldn't pass on the price) inserts into my Rangie, much better low beam light control. High beam is a little better, but the 4 driving lights take care of that.
I used hella inserts too (bought the ones with the H Duty off road lens)
I think the crystal inserts you see are just for looks (to make look like a modern car, yeah like that work on a fender) although I would be interested to hear from someone who used some
the std H4 globes in round lights are pretty good BUT
I Have just bought a Bi xenon HID kit (off eBay) that should help em![]()
Jase
I fitted the Philips Ice Blue jobbies and there would appear to be some improvement around town. Not noticeable in the bush .. but that's what the pair of Hella 2000 are for ...Originally Posted by jase
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So go on then JDNSW, fitting a Relay, how easy is that then?
I've got Cibie inserts, but I'd reckon Hella, IPF, et al would be every bit as good.
A light test I read once re free form reflectors stated that they actually lacked the 'control' that a fluted lens has and so actually lacked lumens..
Dont waste money on those crystal inserts. I had a set of Hellas fitted but saw a set on ebay cheap that no-one bid on so I bought them for $50.00 for the pair. They look good and the light seems whiter but the light pattern is absolutely aweful. Only used them for a few weeks and went back to the Hellas. I previously had Cibie insets which gave (in my opinion) a better light pattern than the Hellas but the reflectors rusted after a few years which was dissapointing as I am a fan of Cibie lights.
Ian
Very. There is a thread on it a month or two ago. One of the forum members here is offering a kit which makes it a plug in job, or you can do it in an hour or two if you are a bit handy and understand vehicle wiring. There was a lot of argument about the wiring details but either way will be a big improvement over no relay as is standard on the 90/110/Defender, and as well as better lights, increases the life expectancy of the switch and combination switch. Heaven knows why they did not put one in in the first place. Very simply, the wire to each beam is cut and the end from the light is taken to the normally open contact, the one from the switch to the coil of the relay and the moving contact to a 12v supply, either the starter solenoid terminal or the alternator output or the battery positive via a fuse, and the other end of the coil earthed. You can use either a separate relay for each beam or a double relay made for the purpose, and you can either wire each side side with separate relay(s) or run both sides from the same relay(s). In any case the relay should be close to the lights and all wiring substantially heavier than the original.Originally Posted by White 110
Search for Traxide upgrade for the kit.
Last edited by JDNSW; 9th August 2006 at 06:44 PM.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
I fitted the clear "freeform" lenses to my SIII with 90/100 H4 QH Globes. They were better than the 15year old Indian made H4 Lenses it had before, but light distribution / definition on low beam was a bit patchy - though that may be due to shadow from the bullbar.
My Defender came with IPF inserts & wiring. They're very bright with clear definition on low beam. They'd be even better if I remove the perspex shields, but I clean them regularly and would probably remove them for country drives on dirt roads where they'd attract an extra layer of dust and where roads aren't clearly outlined with white lines.
I think any reasonable lens with a 6mm wire battery supply for the relay, using fusable links instead of fuses for the main power supply and soldering all the connections will always make a world of difference.
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