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Have to ask, did you clear the faults in the nanacom ? In my case testing revealed it was the earth wire connection in the ABS card that had failed. Faults cleared after the mod and all good. You could do a continuity check to see if your mod has been successful.
regards
Harry
Hi yes, I’ve cleared them a few time. Interesting that I can only view and clear the abs faults with ignition on position 2. 95% of the time it does not work with the car running.
Why is the earth and comms stable when the car is not running?
How don do the continuity test?
I think when the engine is running the nanocom loses connection to the SLABS controller as the SLABS needs to communicate with the other units in the vehicle, that is only my very rudimentary understating of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEntertainer
Not a lot is known about the SLABS really, I did a bit of work on the code but ran out of time.
The later revision SLABS apparently has "relaxed" fault reporting but, I was unable to verify this from a quick look at both the firmwares.
Anecdotally..... I had an early revision on one car that would throw faults, I fitted the last revision and haven't seen any faults for years.
Did you test the shuttle valves with a multi-meter post mod to test if the shuttle valves and wiring modification are correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEntertainer
From memory, both valves open reading is 3.00 One valve closed 2.00 Both closed 1.00.
Also as per your other post, on your vehicle the connection to the red/black wire is correct. (not a dry joint)
If all tests correctly the fault is elswhere.
Regards
Harry
Hi,
No i did not test them, will have to pull them out to test them.
I bought a new shuttle valve so would hope that it was ok, will see if I can pull it out tomorrow morning and test it.
cheers
J
I’ll swap the earth and live wires over tomorrow and see if they I mixed them up. Apparently they could be either way.
Hi all
Swapped them aroung and it now work fine....
I'm not going to why they are in reverse when compered to all the info on the net.
When I did the fix I marked the wires and check 3 time, before I soldered them and re assembled.
For the next guy with the same issue, there is no risk in swapping the wires over....
non the less it all fine now, thanks all for you help
J
Well done, and a good reminder for others to Test the option B wiring is correct before reinstalling the shuttle valves.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEntertainer
Well it only lasted two trips, i’s back, lights is on around 80% of the time.
Readings
Normal state 1.600
One closes 1.2600
Both closed 0.800
Interestingly enough, if I start the car and then push the break in full, then it all seems to be ok for 5-30 min before the re appear again.