Td5 timing chain advice

Make sure you torque the new one up properly. Mine came off a week after I paid a mechanic to do the job, because I have no hoist or family size torque wrench.
It sounded like the big ends were shot.

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Originally Posted by Tins

Number 2 is the reason I got the big rattler in the first place. I have a few tools in my armoury and none would touch it. This was a TDi, but same thing. The breaker bar starter thing didn't either. I looked long and hard at the price tag of the 'Waukee, I can tell you. Got it home, swearing that if it didn't work......:bat:. Brrrt, done. Wow. Thing is, it isn't a single use tool. I once had the D1 hung up on a funny angle with a punctured tyre. On a high lift widow maker. I did not want to be jumping on a wheel brace. Bloody 'Waukee had the wheel undone in seconds. As Karl Malden used to say. "Don't leave home without it". Reminds me, the bloody thing is in Qld....

And yes, a quality 1/2" is prolly more than you'll need.

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Yep, that method used to work with the TD5, as long as the battery or starter were in good shape, between the starter having more torque and the ring gear being a bigger diameter than TDi.
I just stopped doing it when I broke the 2nd Sidchrome breaker. I hardly ever have the radiator out when doing a harmonic balancer, so can't get a rattler in there anyway, only cardboard to protect the fins.

The rattlers are definitely handy, though I would've loosened the wheel nuts before breaking out the widow maker if I didn't have a rattler on board.

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Originally Posted by V8Ian

Make sure you torque the new one up properly. Mine came off a week after I paid a mechanic to do the job, because I have no hoist or family size torque wrench.
It sounded like the big ends were shot.

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Not much of a Mech then!. No need for a hoist as it's all done from above, or a "family sized torque wrench", you could weld one 24mm socket on to a flat bar with another 1/2" drive socket the same length as the torque wrench ( effectively doubling the length of the wrench ) to torque it up to the 460nm, simply set the 1/2" drive torque wrench to 230nm.

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Originally Posted by discorevy

The rattlers are definitely handy, though I would've loosened the wheel nuts before breaking out the widow maker if I didn't have a rattler on board.

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Me too, but the bloody wheel was about a foot off the ground and nobody was brave enough to get in for brake pedal duties.

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Originally Posted by discorevy

Yep, that method used to work with the TD5, as long as the battery or starter were in good shape, between the starter having more torque and the ring gear being a bigger diameter than TDi.
I just stopped doing it when I broke the 2nd Sidchrome breaker. I hardly ever have the radiator out when doing a harmonic balancer, so can't get a rattler in there anyway, only cardboard to protect the fins.

The rattlers are definitely handy, though I would've loosened the wheel nuts before breaking out the widow maker if I didn't have a rattler on board.



Not much of a Mech then!. No need for a hoist as it's all done from above, or a "family sized torque wrench", you could weld one 24mm socket on to a flat bar with another 1/2" drive socket the same length as the torque wrench ( effectively doubling the length of the wrench ) to torque it up to the 460nm, simply set the 1/2" drive torque wrench to 230nm.

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Yes, very disappointing as his mentor was meticulous and passionate.
I seem to have a knack for putting the kybosh on decent spanner marrionetts. It takes ages to find a good mechanic, but when I finally do, they either retire or get themselves posted to the back of beyond. [bigsad]

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Originally Posted by discorevy

Not much of a Mech then!. No need for a hoist as it's all done from above, or a "family sized torque wrench", you could weld one 24mm socket on to a flat bar with another 1/2" drive socket the same length as the torque wrench ( effectively doubling the length of the wrench ) to torque it up to the 460nm, simply set the 1/2" drive torque wrench to 230nm.

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Or.... I got some new wheel bearings for the front of the BA. The ones where you buy the whole hub. Torque for these is I think 360. Asked the ford bloke how they did it. He asked me if I had a rattler, and I said 3/4" 18v Fuel. He said "about four seconds ought to do it". Not sure I like that method for a crank pulley bolt.....

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Originally Posted by V8Ian

It takes ages to find a good mechanic, but when I finally do, they either retire or get themselves posted to the back of beyond. [bigsad]

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Or, at least, that's what they tell you..... :burnrubber:

Used the timing pin in to lock the crank [emoji108] was wondering a method for securing the motor so to speak and that was randomly on YouTube [emoji108]
Saw a lot of the crank the motor method but didn't do that with bits of timing chain tensioner where it's not meant to be [emoji28]
Bolt is out though Fire and leverage (and new rattle gun also had a go https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...faa5489c4b.jpg

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Originally Posted by Epic_Dragon

Used the timing pin in to lock the crank [emoji108] was wondering a method for securing the motor so to speak and that was randomly on YouTube [emoji108]
Saw a lot of the crank the motor method but didn't do that with bits of timing chain tensioner where it's not meant to be [emoji28]
Bolt is out though Fire and leverage (and new rattle gun also had a go https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...faa5489c4b.jpg

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:rulez::ttiwwp:

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Originally Posted by V8Ian

That's what I put on mine. :BigThumb:

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x 2 also put this in mine when my original let go.

Do you need any extra bits? I'm going to order one

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Originally Posted by 4runnernomore

x 2 also put this in mine when my original let go.

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