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Thread: Roadworthy Inspection and Chassis Cracks

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    Roadworthy Inspection and Chassis Cracks

    Hello All,

    Is an obviously welded chassis crack repair the kiss of death for a roadworthy inspection? I think Snowy my 1993 Defender 110 must have been carrying one, or two, or ... too many 1 ton fertiliser bags across rough paddocks during his former life on the cattle station. Both chassis rails have raised welds where cracks have been repaired on the chassis under the tray. The repairs have obviously been performed competently as they are still holding. However, does their noticeable presence mean that chassis integrity could be considered as being compromised and cause it to fail a road worthy? Or should I grind the welds down and plate over the crack to form a boxed section all the way around that particular area of the chassis rails - before a roadworthy inspection?

    A section of my D-Line International Workshop Manual has pages dedicated to carrying out boxed chassis repairs. So I would follow their lead about thickness of steel and distances outside of the cracks to determine the length of the boxed repairs.

    Having to replace the whole chassis because of the repaired cracks as they stand now is a bridge I do not want to even approach, let alone consider possibly having to cross due to a potential future failed roadworthy. If a welded chassis repair is okay then they can stay as they are now.

    Kind regards
    Lionel

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    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Probably depends on who is inspecting it, but I would be surprised if it was considered a problem in view of the amount of welding on the chassis out of the factory.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Hello All,

    I went out in the cold light of day and took some photographs of the cracks in Snowy's chassis rails located under the tray. The inner welded cracks were more extensive than I first thought. I had previously missed the full length of horizontal welds that extend within both inner tray mount brackets. They were covered over with a layer of bull-dust the last time I had a glance at the welded cracks.

    One of the local mobile mechanics is apparently is a Land Rover tragic so I will get them to come around for an inspection to look over things as they stand now. At the time I bought Snowy the chassis rails were covered by a thick layer of mud, oil, grease, bull-dust and cow crud that had accumulated over decades of being a farm ute. Jesus - it must have been one hell of an overload to tear such a long horizontal crack in the inner chassis rails!

    The photographs are: working from the far left to the far right ... 1 Driver's side outer chassis rail, 2) Driver's side inner chassis rail. 3) Passenger's side inner chassis rail, and 4) Passenger side outer chassis rail - sorry for some reason this photograph has swapped position from being horizontal to vertically orientated when uploaded. The original photograph was taken on a horizontal aspect.

    I think it is time to seek professional guidance before spending any more money on Snowy - like converting the rear brakes to discs. Fingers crossed.

    Well a bit of an update. I am getting sent the mobile mechanic's contact number so I can arrange an inspection. In the meantime I will break out the pressure washer and clean the area around the welded cracks. Then give the area a going over with a wire brush fitted to my angle grinder so the extent of the welded cracks are clearer to see. Apparently, the bloke works week on week off at a mine and is only in town every alternate week. Gives me time to make things a bit more presentable.

    Kind regards
    Lionel
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    Last edited by Lionelgee; 1st November 2023 at 10:40 AM.

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    I have never seen anything remotely like that on any Landrover chassis. I suspect that the way the tray is mounted may be putting an excessively concentrated load on the chassis, but it could be simply a result of long term gross overloading!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I have never seen anything remotely like that on any Landrover chassis. I suspect that the way the tray is mounted may be putting an excessively concentrated load on the chassis, but it could be simply a result of long term gross overloading!
    Hello John,

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    One 1 ton fertiliser bag loaded on to the Defender's tray

    Two 1 ton fertiliser bags

    Three 1 ton fertiliser bags .....

    Fo...


    Let's go for a drive across a rutted paddock to the plough...

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    It is amazing what can be covered up by years of bull-dust, grease and crud. Then make sure the car is not cleaned before it is sold.

    It is all down to me a far as Caveat emptor is concerned. I did not follow my own due diligence. When you drive nearly 500 kilometres with a 3.5 tonne car trailer behind your vehicle one is a bit reluctant to drive back home the return trip of another 500 kilometres with an empty trailer.

    A text has been sent to the mobile mechanic to arrange a future inspection. There is also a section in an Australian Hot Rod design manual by one of the government's technical sections about boxing chassis. Between the International D-Line chassis repair section and the hot rod design content an approved repair should be found.

    Earlier this afternoon, I hit the area with a compressed air gun. Then a wire brush. Followed up by a water pressure blaster. A state of cleanliness has revealed that the 90 degree angle that forms one side of the vertical tray mount's 'C' or 'U' bracket was torn off the chassis by the horizontal crack (Previously posted Photo 2). The full vertical run of the 'U' shaped tray mount bracket has been welded back to the chassis rail.

    Looks like in order to plate/box the cracked section I will have to take the tray off. Slice the tray mount bracket off the chassis rails. Grind the horizontal welded crack down flush. Then fit the plate around each side and weld it together at the corners - plus plug weld at regular intervals along the chassis outer and inner faces. After that weld the tray mount brackets to the boxed section of the chassis rails. I might as well wire-wheel the whole chassis and paint it while I am there. Then refit the tray.

    Simples... Sigh

    ================================================== ========================

    National Guidelines for the Construction and Modification of Street Rods in Australia, Street Rod Manual | Department of Infrastructure, Transport, Regional Development, Communications and the Arts

    Second Edition Section 3 — Chassis Boxing (p. 16-17) https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/sites/default/files/migrated/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/files/Street_COP_Rev2_Sec_3.pdf

    According to the technical specifications I would be doing a combination of v. 3.3.2 Laminating and using vii. 3.3.4 Fish-Plates
    ================================================== ====================

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    Last edited by Lionelgee; 1st November 2023 at 01:59 PM.

  6. #6
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    Hello John and All,

    Here are some new photographs that were taken after I had cleaned the areas of interest. It is a bit of a rogues' gallery.

    I think I am best replacing the whole tray mounting brackets that were ripped off and then welded back onto the respective inner chassis faces. I will be using a thicker plate to make the replacements. The original tray mounting brackets just look too flimsy now.

    Both the muffler and the tail shaft contributed to the awkwardness of the inner chassis rail's angle of photography. Oh, and the fourth photograph has changed from the originally taken horizontal angle and the upload has made it go into a vertical angle to just confuse things a bit.

    Kind regards
    Lionel
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