Thread: Discovery rear wheel alignment

Have you noticed hitting something very large and solid at high speeds recently?
Sorry - no idea what would cause that or how to fix it. Someone sensible will be along shortly I'm sure.

Unless it is a Disco 3, there is no adjustment for this - the wheels are set parallel by the axle housing.
The only way they can be closer together at the front are as follows (no particular order):-

1. Bent axle housing - replace, can probably be straightened .

2. Bent wheel - replace. Probably the most likely

3. Loose wheel bearings, possibly about to collapse - replace or adjust.

4. Bent stub axle - replace.

5. Loose wheel - tighten, check for damage.

It is possible for the axle to be at an angle to the vehicle through wear on the lower link bushes or damage to the links, but the wheels would still be parallel.
John

this is one of those times the wizz bang computer wheel aligner at one of your better tyre places is needed. It may cost 40 odd dollars: but they'll tell you exactly whats wrong in about 15min. Make sure it's a nice new one - they hang parts of it on all four wheels and use lasers to locate everything accuratly.

are you sure that's how much toe in you have on the rear ?
In other words, has it been measured ? Just eyeballing it can be quite 'enlightening' when it is measured.
A bit of rear toe in can have quite a good 'stabilising' effect when turning into a corner. Most race cars I aligned had a 'factory' setting of 1 to 1.5mm toe in, but at most tracks we would run up tp 4mm per side as it tended to stabilise the rear end on corner entry and make the car more drivable. In fact I pretty much ran cars like this when used with a full range of front end settings from benign to aggresive. (sometimes up to 10-12mm toe out for turn in)
Interestingly, a mate used to set FWD cars with rear toe out to help overcome the inherent understeer.

FWIW, I reckon most solid rear axles are pointing anywhere but parralel. Even when welded up in a jig, steel 'springs' all over the place. When fitting a Maxidrive diff lock the housing needs to pre-stressed before welding on the actuator block to counter the inevitable movement.

Depending on whether it is a bent stub axle/s or diff housing, replace the bent stub/s, taper shims could be used between the stubs and diff to corect a small misalignment, or the diff housing needs to be removed and placed in a press and 'tweaked' straight.

Thanks for that, all in all it doesn't sound good. I'll take it to a tyre joint and get them to check it out.
Cheers
Brendan

Originally Posted by Bren

Thanks for that, all in all it doesn't sound good. I'll take it to a tyre joint and get them to check it out.
Cheers
Brendan

Before even doing that I'd check for loose wheel bearings or bent wheels - chock wheels (out gear, handbrake off) and jack up one rear wheel at a time, spin to see if they wobble and see if the wheel bearings are loose. My feeling is that a bent wheel is the most likely problem.
John