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Yea I'm trying to drop the sump at the moment to confirm the chain is'nt jammed. The bolts are absurd! Why do they have to over tighten them so much. Yes I'm getting extremly annoyed! Starting to wish the dambed thing would just vanish! To top it all off I have wasted a couple of hours on the wifes car today as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon
Well off to have a cuppa and take a deep breth before I do something stupid.
you don't have to get it to TDC before pulling the head off and it is a big job pulling the head off any late model over head car not like the old cars you can do in an afternoon while drinking if you have got the sump off check that bolt and leave it off till you get the head backon
Finnaly won. Father-in-law is comming round today to help lift it. I found that by myself even standing in the engine bay I just couldn't get it right. At least the timing is set and every bolt is now removed and I have cracked the gasket seal so with two of us it should be fairly easy.
Then I will know where it failed.
I'm much happier now but the wifes car needs a lot more TLC, its still not idling right and has lost its coolany (Better not be the head!)
Well the head is off:D
It had the plastic dowles which were broken:mad:
There was no real sign of leakage or damage between any of the oil, water galeries and the cylinders. A couple of the water galeries were obviously blocked though.
The bores are in exelent nick. You can still see the honing marks.
Only concern is the amount of oil build up in the inlet manifold. Even the coking on the cylinders doesn't seem to bad and quite even on all cylinders.
Anyone have any ideas on other locations where oil could have got into the coolant as there is no signs of cooland in the oil still.
Are you sure its oil - could it be compression leaking into the coolant?
My Disco leaked between #1 cylinder and the water jacket under the head gasket (but not on top) just near the coolant outlet. It looked like oil in the coolant, but the oil in the sump was clean.
I made steel dowels from an 8mm drill bit for my '99, as the steel dowels from the later models are unsuitalbe for the early heads, whereas the later models that were still made with plastic dowels (like my Oct 02 built '03) can use the later again steel dowels.
Good luck with the job.
After cleaning the block I have found the leak, its the water Galeries on the exhaust side cylinders 2,3 and 4. Being the 2001 I should be able to use the metal ones. I was led to beleive I already had the metal ones. Head is being checked tomorrow so I can now order the correct parts and plan the rebuild.
that is good you found the problem while you have the sump off replace the oil pump sprocket bolt and loctite it in,you can get steel dowels for the earlier td5 I got mine from british4wd also get different coloured paint pens this is to mark the new head bolts as you do each torque sequence as there is a few steps to get to the final torque and you won't loose track of where you were
Yep Re read that step twice today. trying to get it set in my head. Reason I couldn't lift the head at the very end was I had forgotten to release the chain guides:angel:Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo
Father-in-law pointed out it was on the next page.....
At least he saw the funny side.
you can buy the angle guage from repco or super cheap or any good tool shop make sure you have a good 1/2" bar with a long handle as the last sequence is tight put a little bit of oil between the head bolt and washer