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Thread: Using relays for a latching circuit

  1. #11
    BradC is online now Super Moderator
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    It would. If you search hard enough you might even find one less than 6” in diameter and worth less than the car. A PWM motor controller will be smaller, much cheaper and more reliable.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    It would. If you search hard enough you might even find one less than 6” in diameter and worth less than the car. A PWM motor controller will be smaller, much cheaper and more reliable.
    I'm curious as to why it'd have to be so big?

    I was under the impression that a seat heater element is about 5 or 10w max. IIRC I've seen 3w element kits.

    I think back when I worked for truck companies, they want 4am starts and Melb winters/autumns/springs can get a bit frosty, and D1 heater took some time to heat themselves up. So I sold the D1 ...

    Nah, I looked into fitting heated elements after I replaced seat spring and foams on the drivers side and was quite easy to do in the end, so had me thinking.
    ... and thinking and thinking .....

    Years later did nothing, sold D1 and moved to a colder region in autumn/winter/spring!... much hotter in summer tho.

    But back then with my expectation that the element is about 5w or so, I thought that using a 15w pot would suffice(easily available at Jaycar). It's only 40mm in diameter, and less than $20.

    Any reason why you wouldn't use something like that?
    I'm definitely no electrical expert, I just thought that as long as the pots capacity is greater than the element capacity, it would be durable.
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    Haven't had a look at your circuit in detail, but I wonder if this would help.

    ​JayTee

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  4. #14
    BradC is online now Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    I'm curious as to why it'd have to be so big?

    I was under the impression that a seat heater element is about 5 or 10w max. IIRC I've seen 3w element kits.
    The D3 seats are ~66W on high and ~36W on low.

    3W isn't enough to keep my coffee warm let alone my backside.
    Last edited by BradC; 19th November 2025 at 10:00 AM.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    I'll check the resistance across the heater element and work out the current, might be a useful starting point. Probably won't be today, picked up a virus. Back to bed.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    I'll check the resistance across the heater element and work out the current, might be a useful starting point. Probably won't be today, picked up a virus. Back to bed.
    Get well quick Pete
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    I'll check the resistance across the heater element and work out the current, might be a useful starting point. Probably won't be today, picked up a virus. Back to bed.
    Id suggest testing the current not just trying to work it out, A real world test will show you the resistance from cold to operating temperature something just checking the cold resitance wont do. If the resistance varies with heat you can end up having to continuously fiddle with a Pot to maintain Temperature. Loosely speaking a PWM only lets a certain amount of power through, how it gets dissipated it doesnt care about.

    Often the 3w element kits are 3w per element and you daisychain, parallel or both the elements to get the desired result. Individual elements are sold as replacement items for a kit and most of the ones in that size that I know about are intended to be used as internal warmers for electronics and batteries in harsh environments.
    Dave

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