The oil on oil for Disco V8

**BigJon** · 8th September 2006, 11:53 AM

Originally Posted by rick130

I used to say that too till I acquired the 'fender. Dad used to rave about diesels, and I used to just mutter bloody oil burners.

BTW, mines an ex-BFC one from up your way, and would've been into Suttons at some stage, even though it was based at Tennant Ck.

A lurker on here grabbed it for me, and knows you too as you supply their service bits.

BFC?

DJAM1?

**matbor** · 8th September 2006, 03:05 PM

I use the penrite..

Divemaster · 8th September 2006, 04:51 PM

Now I have it!!!!

Fish oil for the motor and vegie oil instead of diesel for the TD5

Will try penrite 10 next change and I will use BP Ultimate for fuel and have a bottle of massage oil in the back of the V8 for the ladies. Stuff the fishing.

Also, I change oil filter every second oil change (change oil at 5000-7500) and use LR factory filters (cheaper than ryco etc).

Anyone does anything really different to this?

**rick130** · 8th September 2006, 05:03 PM

Originally Posted by BigJon

BFC?

DJAM1?

was that a TD5 ? if so that's still up there

mines a Tdi, D11C2*** ?

**djam1** · 8th September 2006, 05:37 PM

I had an interesting experience a few years ago I towed a 35 foot caravan from Katherine to Broome at the start of the wet season. I recall crossing the WA border at midday and it was 53 Deg C the oil pressure on the old 2 door Rangie was down to 15-20 Psi (using Penzoil 20w50). I really thought that I was going to blow it up so I camped that afternoon and travelled at night to Kununurra, on arrival I rang Penrite told them of my predicament they advised me to run HPR 50 the oil pressure went up normal regardless of how hot it got the end result I have used Penrite ever since. The only thing I do now us use HPR Gas or HPR 30 as I dont trust HPR 50 in sub zero temps.
As for Castrol Magnetic its the only oil to use in a Subaru L Series I always had trouble with the lifters on these cars the only one that has never had a tick in its life is the one that I ran on Castrol Magnetic others that I have owned and flogged mercilessly for years were only quiet when I ran this oil.

**MacMan** · 9th September 2006, 11:15 AM

I've been running Penrite HPR Gas 10 in the Disco 3.9 since I got it 18 months ago. So far I've done about 30,000km and it comes out after 10,000km still looking pretty good. I made the decision to run that after chatting to one of the Penrite guys at a LROCV tech night. The way he put it is that Penrite is the only company the blends its oils specifically for Australian conditions - our temperatures and fuels. Without anything else concrete to go on I thought what have I got to lose. The engine runs super smooth at all temps but without an oil pressure gauge I have no idea what it's doing.

FYI I also run Penrite in the LT77, transfer, diffs and swivels. The gearbox was running on ATF still and the change was good when cold but got worse with heat. Now it is crotchetty into second when cold, but once it is warm (10 mins driving) it is beautiful.

There you go, another non expert opinion!

**Utemad** · 9th September 2006, 01:43 PM

I was told that Castrol RX Super was what Landrover used to promote for the 3.9 V8 but was later changed.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/produ...tentId=6007096

**PhilipA** · 9th September 2006, 02:00 PM

I once drove from Amman to Riyadh in one day during August in a 1981 2 door with 125K miles on it. Ambient temp was 40c early morning to 55c all day for distance of 1940Km. Oil temp was pegged and water temp was at lower end of red zone most of the day. Pressure was also way down.

Oil was Shell super 20-50 , dino oil as this was 1985. Used about 1.5 litres.

I pulled the engine down soon after as the oil pressure light was coming on. Turned out to be a gone pressure switch. Ah live and learn.
The bearings showed normal wear, the rings were carboned up but the bores were perfect.The cam was buggered but this well predated the trip.
The point I am making is that you can use just about any 20-50 on the market , and it will well lubricate a Rover V8 In the most extreme circumstances found in Australia. I also doubt whether anyone in Australia needs an oil cooler unless maybe towing in 50C..

Re Penrite. Their ONLY USP can be that they have heavier oil as a point of difference. I used to use it but I now reckon its a crock as all it does is decrease fuel economy. It also reduces oil usage but if your engine uses more than 1.5 litres in 5000Km, ie needs topping between changes , you perhaps should look at the valve guides. Why is it in Australia we think our conditions are unique in some way?? The Middle East for example has much harsher conditions with colder winters and hotter summers and the major companies' oils there are the same as sold anywhere else..
Rover recommended oils also include 20-40s if I recall correctly.
Regards Philip A

**rick130** · 9th September 2006, 03:16 PM

Originally Posted by PhilipA

<snip>

Re Penrite. Their ONLY USP can be that they have heavier oil as a point of difference. I used to use it but I now reckon its a crock as all it does is decrease fuel economy. It also reduces oil usage but if your engine uses more than 1.5 litres in 5000Km, ie needs topping between changes , you perhaps should look at the valve guides. Why is it in Australia we think our conditions are unique in some way?? The Middle East for example has much harsher conditions with colder winters and hotter summers and the major companies' oils there are the same as sold anywhere else..
Rover recommended oils also include 20-40s if I recall correctly.
Regards Philip A

pretty much a summation of where I stand. Nice post.

**byron** · 10th September 2006, 01:32 PM

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I use Mobil 1 5w-50 in my 3.9 Rangie.
The USA Guru on the web swears by it. On the other hand The RPI owner says don't use it in a V8. Go figure.

I like it, and it has quick oil pressure rise when cold which should mean less wear. the USA guy says that he has seen many engines survive loss of oil after say failure of a cooler pipe, compared to engines destroyed with mineral oils.
On the other hand , it finds every bloody leak place.
With only inlet teflon seals, and none on exhaust mine uses about 500Cc for 3000Km.
Regards Philip A.

Yeah....I've been using Mobil 1 5/50 in ALL th RR's I've owned since about 1988(?) and think it's the best.....this March had my Merc mechanic do my Disco 1 3.9's 2 yearly/major(ish) maintenance service and put in Elf 10/40.....too early too tell any of down or plus points, so far it's all good.

Elf was about $15.00 cheaper to fill with, but supposed to be a higher specced oil. When I do it myself and pay approx $60 per 5L at Supercheap or K-Mart, but of course, I need to buy two of them. But with 2 cars [buy 3!! = $180!!!!!

] or save till next time that's OK.

My thinking is that because of the longer mileage you can run them for double the time it works out the same as regular mineral oils....but more convenient, and I think offering greater protection.

I still end up changing them once a year or about every 10,000Km.....which is heaps shorter than the oil's rated life - German makers allow oils like Elf and Mobil 1 for 20,000 -40,000 Kms.

BUT!! - I always make sure [each oil change] PCV sytem is clear/clean and working as well as it can = prevent acids + water vapours.... and thermostat is functioning correctly - too cool and ECU runs EFI too rich all the time = oil dilution with fuel + doesn't evaporate off water.

Also, sometimes changed oil filter midway = keep oil clean as possible.

Now I've found a cheap source of Purolator Pure ONE filters #PL 3001- $15 @ Supercheap....regarded as the best normally/easily available can type filters, so feel even happier about using the above regime.

This oil change regime isn't unlike the "most commercally practicable/sensible" one that many large outfits use in servicing trucks/machinery/ships etc

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