Transfer case backlash problem

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Originally Posted by 4bee

Does this plate have a U shaped 1/2 tube welded to the gear side? If so, that is the Oil Feed Plate. If not, dunno.

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Well it doesn't have that. So I guess it isn't it.

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Originally Posted by harro

Q is apparently for 'quiet' and is a development on the 't'
originating in 1997, so definitely not yours.

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Well mine is definately an LT230T then. The part is number 10 under the LT230T main casing components exploded view in the overhaul manual on the RAVE CD.

Have a look at www.steve-parker.co.uk for the plate.

That link doesn't work. I googled Steve Parker and the address is correct but just doesn't work.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Utemad

Thanks for the help guys.

Loanrangie, the car has 157000 kms on it. I have checked the A frame ball joint and it isn't it. I also attempted to tighten the two radius arm chassis bolts and the two trailing arm chassis bolts. One of the TACBs needed about a 1/4 of a turn while the other 3 bolts were tight.

Blknight.aus, I went and rechecked it all with the CDL on. The noise changes between low and high range in that it is far more pronounced in low range. With the transfer case in neutral the noise disappears. So would this be the centre bearing on the transfer case idler that you mentioned? (is this the same as the bearing/thrust washer you also mentioned?) Do you need to remove the transfer case to do this? I am good with mechanicals but I am unfamiliar with Landrover stuff.

Harro, I haven't been able to get the input gear out however having rocked the car with the cover off I can see that there is plenty of oil getting around in there and there is no apparent backlash between the outer input gear and inner mainshaft.
One question I have about the input gear area is that I have removed the cover which is obvious but inside that cover is an internal round plate which also has to come out befpore you can even see the gear. This internal round plate is never mentioned by anyone so I was wondering if this is the oil feed plate I have heard about? It isn't in the exploded view on the RAVE CD.

Thanks.

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Given the vintage of the vehicle and the Kms shes got on her IMHO you'd be looking at a combination of wear on both but given selecting neutral on the Tcase eliminates it I would guess that most of the wear is on the input shaft/gear splines .

From memory you can remove the input gear out the back of the tcase through the PTO cover by finessing the gears orientation with both boxes in neutral. The Idler gear comes out the bottom through the base cover and both jobs can be done without dropping the box. Its easier if your going to do both to drop the idler first...

The basic overview of the process

1. remove the bottom cover (bout 8 8-10mm nuts on studs)
2. remove the stake plate holding the idle gear shaft in place (check it for lash/slop and float before droping it out) (one 13ish mm bolt holding a plate in the shaft externally)
3. mark with paint pen alignments on the gears and the tcase to assist with reassembly later
4. remove shaft and swear as the idle gear and bearing drops on you and removes some skin, find all the parts you've dropped and reassemble on shaft so you rememebr where they all go
5. remove the pto plate (6 13ish mm bolts) and pull the drive gear out the back

inspect the parts and assembly is pretty much dissasembly reversed, apply a smear of sewing machine oil to one face of either the tcase or bottom plate and a nice bead of form-a-gasket on the other, assemble quickly without sliding the mating faces too much.

Off the top of my head the acceptable tolerances are pretty big but if you can re shim or rebuilt the idler and get the float to less than .1mm your in spec. and from memory that should also take care of the slop on the idler...

theres not a lot you can do for worn splines on the input shaft and gear other than replace, but IF your desperate you could try re-assembling with some loctite , not the thread locker but the one thats ment to "glue" bearings onto their races, but you'll need to let that setup for about 12 hours before using and good luck getting it apart next time round. I'l get the number of the loctite from the wall chart at work tomorrow.


Hope its helpful to ya

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll have a look myself but just in case I can't do it I have booked it in at a Landrover place in town next Tuesday.
At least then if I run out of time or patience I won't miss out on my 4wd trip next weekend.

Well I took the Disco into the mechanic today. There is good news and bad news. The bad news is that you were all wrong, including me :o
The good news is that this whole drama was caused by the handbrake being adjusted to tight! He said as soon as he rolled it into the workshop and felt the handbrake he knew what it was. Before that he thought it would have been the centre diff.

Allan reckons last time the car was serviced the handbrake would have been adjusted too tight. However it would not have been a problem until the brake dust and grit built up between the lining and the drum. Plus a bit of hard use on the hills at Mt Mee may have sped the process up.

So all up it was hugely expensive and cost me $0.00

So here is a huge plug for Allan Jennings at Landrover Spares and Repairs in Gympie.

www.landroverspares.com.au

I'm very happy that the radiator was late getting repaired so I never got the chance to drop the transfer oil and pull off covers etc.