No.... but the answers you get might beOriginally Posted by crump
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yeh yeh I know, but question for a mate who was impressed with my set up recently.2000 model Triton, where the hell do they put the auxillary??
Someone out there must know, and it will save me the displeasure of joining another forum.PM me if you like if you dont want your dirty secret out.(is actually asking this question a banning offence?)
The Ugly Duckling-
03 Defender Xtreme, now reduced by 30%.
a master of invisibleness.
No.... but the answers you get might beOriginally Posted by crump
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Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
If you got very fat wires to accomodate the voltage drop from the length of them you could mount them in the back tray area.
Costly but it is one solution.
How dare you mention one of those filthy words here, japanese sh@tbox i mean .![]()
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Uhm, depends what he wants to be doing with the battery. If he feels he's going to be needing it for starting purposes, no matter where he puts it I wouldn't go under 2 B&S (Battery and starter) sized cable. (Dont ask me the copper diam coz I cant remember!). Naturally, it's going to be very large cable if he mounts it in the rear of the vehicle and needs to start with it. Personally, I'd just carry jumper-leads. But anyways I'm getting off track. Thinking thinking...tritons...They never did leave too much space under bonnet for those things. So saying, I'm running on memory here. In the tray isn't going to be as expensive as you think, a couple of extra meters of cabling, perhaps a pair of anderson plugs so you can detatch the battery (and use the same plug for your fridge if you feel the urge). You can get some good quality mounting boxes nowdays for around $50 I think...at least I can get 'em for around 50.
Ohhh and I think dobbo's version and my version of very fat wire might differ immensely.
Curiously crump, what secondary battery setup do you run?
Curiously crump, what secondary battery setup do you run?[/quote]
what , in my Triton?Have a cranking and deep cycle with an isolator, funnily enough the last deep cycle never had enuff amps to start the beast from new, but the current
one does.
The Ugly Duckling-
03 Defender Xtreme, now reduced by 30%.
a master of invisibleness.
My brother's tri too has a dual battery setup but it is a 95 model. I have to say nice things about the tri too cause it is my landy recovery vehicle - but they are crap.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Originally Posted by Relay
So what gauge wire would you use then?
Never put my and Triton in the same sentence please...Ironically I run aux deep cycle battery too, but I know mine wouldn't be able to start my car. Have you opted for one of the marine battery styles, where you get cranking capacity and deep cycle ability all in one? I install them in vehicles all the time, but would love to know how people find them so that when my aux finally gives up it's argument with the fridge I know what to get!Originally Posted by crump
As I have stated somewhere, for starting purposes greater than 2 B&S, cross sectional copper diameter of 32.15mm squared; non-continuous duty is rated at around 230A. If you're charging over a distance ie to the tray etc I'd probably be looking 8 B&S which is around 7.9mm squared copper cross sectional aread and can carry around 70A continuous current and should cover your voltage drop over the distance. But you know me, I over-spec everything. That way when your connections get old and worn and you start getting age-resistance your system still works beautifully.Originally Posted by dobbo
What you define as the guage of a wire I dont know.
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