do you have a multi meter check the out put with the engine running
my disco has now spat an alternator it appears.
new i should have bought that dam rangie.... :P
battery light is on the dash, check the alternator fuse, it's fine, bearings in alt are fine...
the heat shield vibrated loose and was resting against the back of the alternator.......cant see what damage that could have done but...
whats the best course of action to take..... apart from burning the thing that is :P
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
"Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
"If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
“What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
"We can ignore reality, but we cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality.” – Ayn Rand
"The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius
do you have a multi meter check the out put with the engine running
Expect at most 160,000 km out of an alternator in dusty conditions.
Did the tacho needle waver prior to failure?
Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
the tacho still works :P
off to the auto electrikery man tomorrow it seems...... if i can find one open.....
gotta lovem....
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
"Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
"If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
“What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
"We can ignore reality, but we cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality.” – Ayn Rand
"The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius
does the alternator have a black regulator screwed on the back of it....?
if it does.....they are only about $30 - $40 to replace.....this little black thing carries the brushes.....
have you looked for a fusible link........if the shield has shorted the output it may have blown......
if its easy to get to....do as rangieman suggests......check if there are any volts coming out of it......
Before panicking - do the basics first.
Test meter, or even a 12v bulb with the + and - wires attached
If using a test meter measure volts across the battery with engine not running - could be between 10.5 and 12 v approx
If using a bulb/globe connect to battery and guess light level
Start the car
Measure the voltage - with meter should be > 13 volts
If using bulb it will be brighter than before
If the voltage stays the same or the bulb is the same brightness then it is not charging and the alternator will need to be checked
The heat sheild being loose could have shorted between the + and the - terminals
Ladas
I've had two altenators die on me in two years. My altenator does not have a heat shield fitted to the back. Not sure if it ever did. As I am running high EGT's when towing, the heat was cooking the bearing at the back of the ALT. It was also hot on the passenger side floor area which my wife complained about. So I fitted a bonnet scoop above the exhaust manifold area. The floor area does not get hot and the ALT, so far, has lasted. However, I have ordered a heat shield for the ALT yesterday.
When the ALT died the second time (about 12 months of use), the rear bearing was as dry as and the brush holder had melted. $450 later I replaced the ALT.
A $30 Autobahn bonnet scoop worked for me. I hope this info helps.
if that was your problem......would a bandage on the exhaust help to keep the heat in.....?
or a heat shield around the exhaust....?
the scoop is probably better as it drops under bonnet temps......
but would work better with the bandage and shield........me thinks.....
hey inc, as said before, put a multi meter on the battery and rev it up, volts should increase if alt is still working.
is your engine covered in mud like mine, if so then maybe give the alt a few taps with the percussometer, and run the engine again, maybe loosen stuck brushes, if it goes for a short time then most likely brushes are worn, the cheapest of all the fixes.
exhaust wrap kills mild steel in no time at all. It just fatigues it like nobodies business.Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
HPC or Jet Hot coating on the first three feet of the dump pipe is better. Doesn't retain as much heat as the wrap so doesn't fatigue the base metal, while still significantly reducing radiant heat.
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