Rangie Clutch Change

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Originally Posted by DRanged

Mate if you have a hoist stick it through one of the doors and lift the g/box out and down onto the ground, then reverse the proceedure.Way quicker and easier than removing the engine IMO. Have done it with LT95 and R380.

Regards Justin

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Yep, I reckon it would have been quicker.
I pulled the carpet up to see what was involved in removing the floor.
A few screws and some some goop (after the seat removal).

I opted for the engine, as i thought it needed a GOOD cleanup.
It also allowed me to get to all the wiring better.
A 4.4 is a bit taller than a 3.5, and it makes it difficult to get to all the wiring at the back of the engine.
Actually, everything at the back was covered in greasy sludge.

Time for a massive de-grease.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

Moving engine forward a few inches is much easier than undoing everything to remove the g/box, to acees bellhousing bolts just remove the engine mounts and lower the engine down and you can then reach the top bolts from the engine bay.

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Didn't think of that.

Actually the top bolts weren't the worst.
The second to top bolts were.
Can't see em, had to rely on feel only.

Tried a few extensions.
One guy at work suggested using as many as possible, and basically undo them from as far away as possible.
Best option was the 10" extension.
I also have the best ratchet in the world. It's a pivoting head (pivots above the drive) sidchrome that has been worth it's weight in gold over the last 25 years.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DRanged

Mate if you have a hoist stick it through one of the doors and lift the g/box out and down onto the ground, then reverse the proceedure.Way quicker and easier than removing the engine IMO. Have done it with LT95 and R380.

Regards Justin

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This is the way it was always done at Leyland Truck & Bus, Brisbane, when we had he recall on the early RR transmissions. Out with the seats and floor, in with the gooseneck crane, and out with the whole trans. Wheel it away and put in on a stand or on the bench. Stand in the hole and replace the clutch or anything else in there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ralf_the_RR

Didn't think of that.

Actually the top bolts weren't the worst.
The second to top bolts were.
Can't see em, had to rely on feel only.

Tried a few extensions.
One guy at work suggested using as many as possible, and basically undo them from as far away as possible.
Best option was the 10" extension.
I also have the best ratchet in the world. It's a pivoting head (pivots above the drive) sidchrome that has been worth it's weight in gold over the last 25 years.

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Its actually not a real good idea, if you dont centre the clutch plate properly you'll be rather annoyed when you can't get the motor to mate correctly with the box

you really want to make a conscious effort to properly align that plate

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rovercare

Its actually not a real good idea, if you dont centre the clutch plate properly you'll be rather annoyed when you can't get the motor to mate correctly with the box

you really want to make a conscious effort to properly align that plate

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I was referring to the bellhousing bolts.
Haven't even taken the pressure plate off.

I know all about aligning a clutch.
Try a twin plate Ford. Very difficult without a tool. Used a steel rule once (and it worked).

I see said the blind man, you mean lowering the motor to get to the bolts, just use a flat ring spannr to crack them from the top or a 2' extension and uni from below.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ralf_the_RR

Didn't think of that.

Actually the top bolts weren't the worst.
The second to top bolts were.
Can't see em, had to rely on feel only.

Tried a few extensions.
One guy at work suggested using as many as possible, and basically undo them from as far away as possible.
Best option was the 10" extension.
I also have the best ratchet in the world. It's a pivoting head (pivots above the drive) sidchrome that has been worth it's weight in gold over the last 25 years.

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Mate I gotta go one better, 3/8th drive air ratchet, with an impact rated deep reach socket, uni drive and a 12 inch extention bar crack it a poomtheenth of a turn, hit the air and.... done... all bolts out of a bell housing in under 10 minutes..

As a clutch aligning tool use a 6 inch long 1/2 inch extention bar with a little bit of newspaper wrapped around it.

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Mate I gotta go one better, 3/8th drive air ratchet, with an impact rated deep reach socket, uni drive and a 12 inch extention bar crack it a poomtheenth of a turn, hit the air and.... done... all bolts out of a bell housing in under 10 minutes..

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My air ratchet is 1/2". Never even thought of using it. Must see if it fits.
I hate uni's. The only one I have is too floppy. Must get one of those with the spring.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

As a clutch aligning tool use a 6 inch long 1/2 inch extention bar with a little bit of newspaper wrapped around it.

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Yep I'll improvise. Was thinking about a bit of dowell (broom handle) wrapped in masking tape. (I actually have a couple of home made clutch tools. Must see if they fit).

If anyone is interested, here's the culprit:

Can anyone tell the difference between new and old?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...006/10/115.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/app/showgallery.php/cat/662

On the subject of UNI joints, I tape mine up with electrical tape so they don't flop around as much but still allow me to get them on to nuts without having to guide them all the way to the nut/bolt but still a little flexible.