Gaskets or silicone?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 4bee

It was me enquiring about this & mainly regarding the possible need to remove steering rods etc. Sounds like that's a no.

So, no more leaks showing then?;)

Thanks for the update.:)

---

Hi 4bee just an update on the sump gasket. I was under the car having a look around to ensure a smooth camping trip this weekend and thought I would recheck the sump bolts. I had my 1/4in drive set handy so I used that. It turns out that you don't have to remove the inspection cover if you use a 1/4in drive. Oh well live and learn.

Thanks for that Utemad.:)
I have't been there yet, but I will give that a try as I have got 1/4" drive stuff.

Wow - very old thread I know.

However tomorrow I will be fitting the sump back up to the block.

As per this thread - LR advise not to use a gasket & to use a sealant... shall I stick with it or go the gasket & goo or just gasket? :)

I see here a gasket was used... so I am not sure which to choose lol

Cheers in advance.

PS will be fitting rocket covers as well.. gasket or goo? :p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Utemad

Hi guys,

I have been reading my service manual for my D1 and I have noticed that they don't specify gaskets for their covers. Specifically the sump gasket on the 3.9 V8 and the LT230. They do specify RTV Hysoil White Sealant for the engine sump and Hylomar Sealant for the transfer case sump (use thread sealant too).
However since you can actually buy gaskets is it better to use the gaskets or the sealant or both when you are trying to remove some oil leaks from your Rover?

My D1 actually came with an unused cork engine sump gasket. I guess the previous owner never got around to fitting it.

---

if your sump face has a raised ridge around it, then it needs a gasket. I really dont advise using silicone only or silicone at all for that matter when sealing here. Silicone alone WILL squeeze out the side regardless of partially skinned or not and what leaks outside also leaks inside. I see all too many engines with pickup screens clogged with clumps of it.
Factory is gasket sealed with Hylomar and not that ACL crap either, REAL Hylomar. And dont over tighten bolts either!!

I personally prefer to seal all the flat face items made of pressed metal with a gasket and copious amounts of hylomar #3, now loctite #3, then I let that setup for 24 hours prior to filling with fluid.

most of the time goop alone works, the same as gaskets by them selves.. occasionally you will need both. I prefer to edge my bets and start off that way.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I personally prefer to seal all the flat face items made of pressed metal with a gasket and copious amounts of hylomar #3, now loctite #3, then I let that setup for 24 hours prior to filling with fluid.

most of the time goop alone works, the same as gaskets by them selves.. occasionally you will need both. I prefer to edge my bets and start off that way.

---

Me too. Belt AND braces. The better sealants have allowed manufacturers to run their machine tools harder and their cutting tools longer between tool changes, thus producing a worse finish and worse fit-up on sealing surfaces, and so chopping production costs. The lesser finish is compensated for by the improved sealants. These chickens come home to roost when we reach repair time and the sealing surfaces are a bit distorted and/or deteriorated. What worked for Land Rover on the assembly line does not necessarily still work 10 years and 300,000 k's later.

I always go with the gasket and goo all the time. you are doubling your chances of not getting an oil leak :D;).