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Thread: Tools needed for most landy repairs

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yass NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
    if you are burning yourself working on your car....you are in too much of a hurry.....

    first you sould lift the bonnet.......


    THEN...............



    .......by the time you have that second beer the engine should have cooled enough for to work on it without burning yourself.....

    this also gives you a chance to think about the problem at hand and work out the best possible way to attack/resolve it.....



    ps...on a land rover...most of the nuts and bolts are imperial sizes.....
    this is good....as most of todays cars are all metric.....
    this make the imperial tools a lot cheaper to buy.....
    and the best place to find cheap tools is the nearest flea markets.....trash & treasure.....
    I have been surprised about how many of mine are metric. so far its been 70% metric and only 30% imperial!
    If you have the money a 10mm ratchet spanner is great! it's a ford tool for the manifold but once you have it it makes all those pesky 10mm nuts and bolts so easy.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Braidwood, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
    you got a picture of this file...?
    I do now.

    Hoof_File.jpg
    Norm

    2011 D4 TDV6 (Audrey)
    99 Defender 130 single cab ute 300Tdi (Mabel)
    99 S1 Disco Tdi (Grumble)
    -ex 97 S1 Disco V8i (Beast)
    -ex 94 Defender Tdi (Antichrist II)
    -ex 98 S1 Disco Tdi
    -ex 78 Strangie (The Bucket)

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Brisbane, Inner East.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
    breaker bar? ratchet? why?

    Put the socket on and then use the vice grips to hold the socket, jam the screwdriver into the vice grips then slide the ring end of a ring/openender over the handle and step on that...


    If your going to get a breaker bar, get one of the ones that is looks like just a bent steel bar with square ends, the pins give out in the others at the most inconvenient times. And a good ratchet.

    I buy my socket sets as a set of sockets then buy the extentions, breakers, ratchets and speed handles seperately.
    My God, if you broke a flex bar then you either had a cheap and nasty one or did something totally out of order. The only one i have ever broken since an apprentice in 1959 was a 1/2" drive being used to loosen the pinion flange nut on an old Volvo. I had stopped the pinion from turning by use of a chain, shackles, and a turnbuckle around a suspension arm, and was using a hydraulic jack under the flex bar in an attempt to turn the large nyloc nut. Eventually I got the thing off with a home made tool. It turned out that some clown had loctited the nut to the pinion. The torque spec. for theseis 180ft/lb so they wouild not loosen easily in any case.

    MY basic hand tools those usually accumulated by a fitter-machinist and motor enthusiast over almost fifty years since apprenticed:-

    AF, Metric, Whitworth ring, ring/open end, open end wrenches, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, Allen & torx, sockets and accessories, multitudes of pliers, vise grips, multigrips, punches, clamps, pullers of all kinds, quantities of files of all shapes and sizes, scrapers, hammers small & large- ball,straight, cross pein, sledge, lead, plastic, hide etc. Feeler gauges:- metric and inch, steel and brass. Torque wrenches from in/lb to 400ft/lb. Dial gauges, bore gauges, dwell meter, timing lights, multi-meters, vacuum & pressure gauges. Deburring tools. Shifters 2" to 30". And so on.

    Yet I still find jobs where I have to buy or borrow a tool. Start with the basics and just keep accumulating.

    I have as well, stick & mig welder, lathe, drill press & drill bits parallel and taper shank from no.80 to 1 1/8" , three bench grinders all with dedicated wheels, a diamond wheel drill sharpener, linisher, micrometers inside to 12" & outside to 6" & 150mm. And many other items. If I had a bigger shed I would have two lathes,one bigger and one smaller than my current one, a universal mill with vertical head on a motorised overarm, anvil and forge, English wheel, guillotine, folder, rollers. A bigger drill press or radial arm drill (No.4 morse taper with power feed & geared head), & a high speed sensitive drill, at least three linishers.

    Hope rests with Gold Lotto.
    URSUSMAJOR

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    2780
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    Is that similar to surform plane?





    Which is just basically a kitchen grater with handles.

    Cheers
    Simon

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Singapore via Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norm Mueller
    I do now.

    Hoof_File.jpg
    Bastard!












    just kidding - couldn't resist


    anyway, I must have about 10 of those files in various lengths (inherited from Grandad the ex army engineer - along with assorted tools etc collected from his days at the proving grounds)

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    Its one of those murphy things Brian. Most breaker bars have a roll pin type setup in em and for 99.9999999 percent of the time are going to be more than what you really need....

    However, Murphy does not like me...

    giving him that 0.0000001% chance is tempting fate... (thats why I carry both...)

    Having said that me an MR. Murphy have this basic deal going on... I let him have all his little victories over me but at the end of the day... if its all turned to clay he'll give me just enough to get it home.... and he lets me have ALL those moments that have people asking "and you got through that uninjured how?"
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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