Thread: D2 Rear Auxillary Plug

Hi DaveF, the socket should be fused so find out how much current ( amps ) your fridge needs and see how big the fuse is for the power socket.

The fuse’s current should be at least 50% higher that the maximum needed to power the fridge. If so then you should have no problems at all.

If the fuse is the same or lower current rated that the fridge, then you need to run a new cable.

DO NOT REPLACE THE EXISTING FUSE WITH A LARGER RATED ONE.

Cheers.

The wiring for the Aux socket is a bit lightweight - I wouldn't recommend it.

I take it you want to have the fridge running when you are on the move as well as when you are stationery.

I would put in a temporary supply fused, direct from the battery using some decent size cable, wouldn't cost too much and wouldn't take long to do.

Use a good quality high amp rating socket, not a cheap tinny thing.

i have run an engel 50l fridge of mine on numerous occasions with no problems at all? What is the difference between this and a 70l fridges power demands?

A little OT but close enough, few days ago i was looking thru the rave cd and noticed the auxillary power socket kit that was available as an option for D1's, the amount of work required to fit it actually looked more involved than running a completely new power lead and socket.

Thanks for your comments , As I was only using it for the weekend and the owner of the fridge suggested I turn it off over night I thought it would be ok without going into new wiring etc. I will do that when I get my own fridge. I guess I will just see how it goes and hope I dont end up
Cheers

DaveF

Hi again DaveF, if your going to be powering it most of the time while your drive, then the potential problem is greatly reduced as the voltage going to the fridge is higher, so the fridge doesn’t have to work as hard and therefore the current draw is lower.

Cheers