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There was a mention on another thread about running power directly from the battery to the fan, at the least as a test, and considering a relay in that direct line so fan can get full voltage rather than about 10 as installed. I haven't tried personally.
Quote:
Originally Posted by scrambler
Any idea who posted it?
If you want to test that the fan works there is a plug in wires that come out of the fan motor. To test unplug and apply power and earth to connetor inside. Polarity isn't important in a test and it only makes the fan turn a different direction. The is power at the alternator all the time. Just make sure the positive wire doesn't touch the negative one or any other metal. No fuse to save you. Sometimes the motors seize due to lack of use. Quite often they can be made to work by taking out and giving the fan a spin with power applied.
If you need a wiring diagram for the isuzu county let me know i will scan mine and send it to you.
If you find the fan is fine the next step is to check the resistor block, mounted directly above the left mudgaurd. Take it out (two screws) and just see if any of the coils are broken. Should still work when set to max speed though. Which would get you through roadworthy. Connectors to the resistor can also get a bit rusty which doesn't help.
Even operating the fan speed switch up and down many times can help by cleaning the contacts.
Best of luck. I know what that county wiring is like. ;)
WR
Quote:
Originally Posted by wovenrovings
Thanks WR,
Which plug are you referring to? - immediately in front of the fan (or the black plastic arch if it isn't the fan) is a block with two plugs going into it. One plug has 2 wires and one has about 5. Is the power feed to the fan the one block???
Also, how do you even dismanlte everything enough so that you can spin the fan by hand???
All the wiring for the AC and fan/heater appears to be various shades of red and orange, which doesn't help things much...
I have the wiring diagram from the "Australian Suppliment" If you have something better then please email it to me - ben6886 at gmail.com.
Ben, is the washer stalk the same as early rangie's ? i had mine give up, so i pulled the end off the stalk and there is only a little brass or copper U shaped piece that falls off thus preventing contact. It is an easy fix.
Yes it is the same, but unfortunately for me that bit is fine, the problem is elsewhere - somewhere between the switch and the washer pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
When you find out why the washer won't work, please post it here because mine doesn't either. I too have had the dash out and am appalled by the bloody disgraceful wiring job that seemingly bears no resemblance to the published diagrams. The washer motor works when a power supply is connected directly. When I put the dash back I had lost low beam and high beam flasher, so had to pull it out again and work out which of the numerous loose end wires were the ones that had fallen off the dimmer/flasher switch. I found a black wire with an alligator clip on the end clipped to the wiper switch stalk. I have no idea what it does or where it goes as it disappears into the maze in the black hole.
Further to the last post, does anyone have a decent wiring diagram for a County 110 station wagon with 4BD1 and factory air? The ones in the handbooks are bloody hopeless. They show a circle with the caption "steering column switches" and a myriad of wires radiating out from the circle. My car has four steering column switches performing either 12 or 13 functions depending how you count them. The fuse box/ junction box illustration bears little resemblance to the one actually on the car.
I too would love a proper wiring diag for the Isuzu County ( 86 ) with factory air.
My favourite mechanic gave me a road worthy without the heat/air/demister working, but we didn't know how it worked, so we "assumed" it would work if we read the manual ;)
I doubt the system just needs a re-gas as suggested by the PO, but I prefer the windows down anyway. Qld never gets cold enough for a heater, but a demister would come in handy, if I can get it to work :( .
Bruce.
OK - well I managed to get EVERYTHING working - and am still catching up on sleep and regrowing my hair afterwards... :o I got up at 5 am this morning to put all the dash back together before going down to get the rego inspection done...
In case anyone is interested...
WASHER. From the washer switch, two light-green & black ( LGB ) wires disappear into the dash behind the air con gear, but only one exits out the very middle of the firewall (behind a black plastic cover). This wire then follows along the firewall to the LHS (going over the top of the air-con at the very back), then disappears into the guard, and reemerges at the front. After some fiddling I found that I had power in this wire until it disappeared into the LHS guard, and when it re-emerged it had no power (God knows what could happen in the middle). I didn't want to pull the guard to bits, so I cut the wire before it entered the guard and ran a new wire the rest of the way. WASHERS FIXED!!!
FAN/BLOWER. I tried feeding +ve directly to the fan, and nothing happened, so I thought the fan was buggered. Then I though about earth, and for some reason, the earth wire had no current. I didn't want to dismantle the loom, so I ran a new earth. That and some cleaning of the connections on the "3-speed" power supply for the fan, and all was working again.
Makes it sound easy huh???
Oh - and did I pass???
No - Apparently all vehicles in WA up to 25 years old need a passively arming immobiliser. So now I have to delve back into the spaghetti soup and connect that up.
Also, the original, genuine exhaust didn't pass, as all exhausts that exit the passenger side need to point downwards??? I think it is a bit 50/50 if the county exhaust exits rearwards or towards the passenger side...