What would I be paying for the uni-joint?
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What would I be paying for the uni-joint?
Yet another huge bill saved by Tombraiders advice
Tombraider, Mate, don't ever come over too the Eastern states (your body couldn't handle it) there are so many people over here that owe you a beer, including me, you'd be on dialysis before you left:D
ive reacently replaced all mine n the rangie(im sure there same as fender)at a measly sum of 22 bucks ea but th install would cost about an hours labour i know i can do either shaft in under an hour so any good landy man should be the sameQuote:
Originally Posted by TheEntertainer
cheers
chris
thats true lokka......but they are a standard uni joint.....
any mechanic should be able to change them.....no need to pay stealer rates to get the job done.....
and to make them last longer.....they need to be greased regularlyish......
My 81' Rangie has always clunked pulling away, I have had the a frame ball joint replaced and a few bushes. The mechanic at the time said I shouldn't worry about it they all do it.
Was he wrong?
ill agree ive owned 2 rangies and ive driven other rangies and discos they all do it even my Defender has slack in the drive line just live with it:angel:Quote:
Originally Posted by downundersteve
xbox, when do you want to look under your truck, we can have a little training session on mechanickery if you like?
Landrovers, particularly the constant four wheel drive ones, have a lot of "joins" in the drive train - splines (gearbox output shaft, centre diff (2), prop shafts (2) diffs (4), CV joints (2), hubs (2 or 4); meshing gears - transfer case (3), three diffs (6); dog clutches - gearbox and transfer case (all this in top gear); suspension links (which SHOULD have zero movement) - both ends of front radius rods, both ends of rear lower links, A-frame ball joint and chassis bushes.Quote:
Originally Posted by downundersteve
Even when new and in perfect condition these add up to there being some backlash, in particular there will always be some play on the differential centre gears. So in that sense he is right. And a bit more play on various splines is harmless. The trick is to recognise when you have play that definitely should NOT be there, which is in any U-joint or CV joint or any suspension link, and where wear on splines is excessive (prop shafts and the output shaft of the R380 box in particular).
Any drive train slack will be emphasised by poor driving or a dragging handbrake.
John
Mate, you're on! I'm not quite useless with mechanics or tools, but never really spent time under the fender and would love to get to know her better.Quote:
Originally Posted by harry
Time really is the hold-up as Justin wants het to measure for rock-sliders and Tim wants me as well for the battery-tutorial, all of which i'm looking forward to. Hopefully things will calm down over Dec and i'll give you a call. Thanks
no wuckers, just give me a ring, and if you like to bring it to my house ['cause thats where the jack is] we can play under it.
if you have to go to justins, he might throw it on the hoist and look at it for you [sorry jus' i am a dobber, i know!]