Thread: How do you convert to OIL LUBED WHEEL BEARINGS?

Byron

If it helps, keep it all as standard and concentrate on regular servicing. Our truck has done some extreme things in its life, sitting on 35" tyres and running the weight of the Isuzu diesel. NEVER HAD A PROBLEM. Very simple rule of thumb, mud + water = extra maintenance. Regardless of set up, if you play in these two areas change all lubricants as soon as you get back, regardless of there condition.

Just my thoughts

Justin

Originally Posted by DRanged

Byron

If it helps, keep it all as standard and concentrate on regular servicing. Our truck has done some extreme things in its life, sitting on 35" tyres and running the weight of the Isuzu diesel. NEVER HAD A PROBLEM. Very simple rule of thumb, mud + water = extra maintenance. Regardless of set up, if you play in these two areas change all lubricants as soon as you get back, regardless of there condition.

Just my thoughts

Justin

Yeah, I tend to agree....especially about changing lubricant - that's why the idea of oil lubed front wheel bearings is soooo appealing. Just change the oil in them whenever you drain and refill spheres, a minimum of every second oil change/"Major" lubrication service or when you think water may have been sucked in. Also it's a breeze to check lube quality - just drain a bit off and inspect!

Originally Posted by JDNSW

No Series Landrovers had seals between the hub and the swivel, between the swivel and the diff, yes. No Series Landrover (with fully floating axle) had a seal between the rear hub and the rear diff.

The plugs provided in drive flanges up to Series 2a were for initial filling of the hubs - later they used grease as initial lubrication, and for both relied on oil from the diff and the swivel to ensure lubrication of the wheel bearings.
The 110 introduced a seal between the swivel and the hub at the front, but not at the back between the hub and the diff.

John

Thanks!.......that's a really great summary of the set ups in the various versions.......and what I pretty well knew/suspected, but had forgotten/no longer certain about.

can i just ask you to clarify; to change from greased wheel bearings to oil.

1;make sure (inner?) hub oil seal is double lipped (RTC3511)
2; remove drive flange from axle end, drill and tap, then insert bolt (this becomes the new filler/drain/levl plug)
3;replace drive flange and gasket
4;remove threaded bolt in drive flange and fill with ep90

is the above is correct, then this seems a real easy conversion and far easier to mainain the wheel bearings than having to remove the hub to regrease 'em after wading.
are there any catches??

I know that this is a bit off the track now but, getting back to oil swivels.

Can you just add oil to greased swivels without removing the grease?
Yes you can/No you cant. If you have a swivel housing with the appropriate plugs in it you can add oil, if you dont you cant without modding the housing which means a full strip to do it safely.
Is there a capacity issue?
Yes there is, but as the housing will be overfull its not really a problem unless it blows a seal out
Do the detergents in either react badly with each other?
Not to my knowlede IF you have moly grease in the swivels it reacts with nothing I know of that you are likely to put in there with it
Is the resulting mix less than the required viscosity oil?
no, it will be thicker than the oil alone but thinner than the grease alone
Will the oil just take over from the grease over successive oil changes?
Yes but as Ive mentioned previously/elsewhere I put in a blend of grease and oil deliberately so it gets the best of both worlds.If youve got a swivel housing without the appropriate drain/fill plugs you will have to replace the wiper seal on the ball joint as the existing one will be a dust seal not an oil seal. ditto for every other seal in the housing.

thanks

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

<snip>
If youve got a swivel housing without the appropriate drain/fill plugs you will have to replace the wiper seal on the ball joint as the existing one will be a dust seal not an oil seal. ditto for every other seal in the housing.

I disagree. I've seen quite a few late model Defenders with oil lubed swivels due to incorrect servicing (including my own) and none of them have leaked.
I've never had a leak in 4 years.
The diff was over full when I took delivery (the excess had blown past the axle tube seal) but I've never had a swivel leak.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I know that this is a bit off the track now but, getting back to oil swivels.

Can you just add oil to greased swivels without removing the grease?
Yes you can/No you cant. If you have a swivel housing with the appropriate plugs in it you can add oil, if you dont you cant without modding the housing which means a full strip to do it safely.
Is there a capacity issue?
Yes there is, but as the housing will be overfull its not really a problem unless it blows a seal out
Do the detergents in either react badly with each other?
Not to my knowlede IF you have moly grease in the swivels it reacts with nothing I know of that you are likely to put in there with it
Is the resulting mix less than the required viscosity oil?
no, it will be thicker than the oil alone but thinner than the grease alone
Will the oil just take over from the grease over successive oil changes?
Yes but as Ive mentioned previously/elsewhere I put in a blend of grease and oil deliberately so it gets the best of both worlds.If youve got a swivel housing without the appropriate drain/fill plugs you will have to replace the wiper seal on the ball joint as the existing one will be a dust seal not an oil seal. ditto for every other seal in the housing.

So, (1) can you just just change [or remove(?)] the the inner bearing GREASE type seal or must you change it to an OIL type seal, and does the drive plate end gasket act as the outer oil seal?

(2) Can you [using above method or something like it] achieve effective OIL LUBRICATION of the bearing by just allowing oil from inside swivel sphere to travel into and lubricate the bearing?......using the sphere's DRAIN, FILL, and LEVEL plugs to achieve correct levels within the now larger capacity chamber [SPHERE + BEARING CAVITY]?.....or is it neccessary to drill and tap a plug in drive plate [that could possibly get damaged/broken off]

(3) Can you just [using above two mthods - or another] keep the system really simple like the Series to achive OIL Lubrication?