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Thread: salsbury into rangie

  1. #11
    crossy Guest
    nice and smooth :


  2. #12
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by crossy
    not if you get intimate with an angle grinder - same clearance as a rangie diff


    Hey, I really LIKE it!!!........looks good to me!.......btw, whats the box and electric motor(?) on L.H.S. axle tube and all the wiring?....a diff locker of some sort?.....[Excuse my ignorance]

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by byron
    Hey, I really LIKE it!!!........looks good to me!.......btw, whats the box and electric motor(?) on L.H.S. axle tube and all the wiring?....a diff locker of some sort?.....[Excuse my ignorance]
    its a maxi drive diff lock actuator

  4. #14
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    or a mcnamarra set up i think mcnamarra are now air operated locker not a vac set up

  5. #15
    lokka Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by crossy
    nice and smooth :

    Looks cool what did u use to weld it back up did u just weld in a flat plate looks like an easy job will sus it out wen i get the diff out and do it then am considering puting a sals in the front to so the trim would be a must thanx 4 the pics
    cheers

    chris

  6. #16
    crossy Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by lokka
    Looks cool what did u use to weld it back up did u just weld in a flat plate looks like an easy job will sus it out wen i get the diff out and do it then am considering puting a sals in the front to so the trim would be a must thanx 4 the pics
    cheers

    chris
    Thanks Chris,

    I ended up cutting out a fair bit which needed two pieces to be welded back in as it was an angled section that was cut out. Used CIG weldall rods which are $$ but are somewhat foolproof to use.

    Another way is to just grind the lump off and weld in a section where the drain plug went. Not sure if this way gives the same clearance, but would be close. (A lot less work this way)

    IMO - the hard bit is modifing the diff cover. I butchered the standard pressed metal unit, gave it up as a lost cause and went the diy route.

    The cover base is 10mm thick. gas axed out of a plate that was lying around, the checker plate cover panels are 1/4" thick - again all I had lying around. The biggest problem was the warping of the ring plate - but silicone is great stuff, no leaks so far

    also - I checked the ring gear backlash before doing anything - 11 thou.
    checked it again after welding - still 11 thou, so I assume the housing didn't warp.

    If I was doing a front sals (I will one day) I'd grind down the ring gear as well to get even more clearance.

    Cheers Simon

  7. #17
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    its a maxi-drive one piece double acting vaccum actuator and selector housing.

    tubes are vaccum lines to lock/unlock

    wires are to let you know(via the in-cab light) when locked/unlocked

    cheers, serg

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by crossy
    The biggest problem was the warping of the ring plate -
    If you knew someone who had a plasma cutter to cut the plate/ring/base of cover he'd be a good guy to know!
    Last edited by byron; 7th December 2006 at 05:59 AM.

  9. #19
    lokka Guest
    IMO - the hard bit is modifing the diff cover. I butchered the standard pressed metal unit, gave it up as a lost cause and went the diy route.

    The cover base is 10mm thick. gas axed out of a plate that was lying around, the checker plate cover panels are 1/4" thick - again all I had lying around. The biggest problem was the warping of the ring plate - but silicone is great stuff, no leaks so far

    G'day this would prob be the easy bit for me and the warping whilst welding is easy to get around thanks again for the info and the pics mate now i know wats involved i mite get a chance after new year to do somthing about it

    cheers

    chris

  10. #20
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    a thread I posted back in September re shaved a Sals
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=30332


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