verry true the 9 inch isnt that strong when its turning big wheels and when a 9 inch breaks they break big :D :DQuote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
cheers chris
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verry true the 9 inch isnt that strong when its turning big wheels and when a 9 inch breaks they break big :D :DQuote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
cheers chris
what would bethe best way to do a front sals into the rangie
use the orignial sals axels and have them shortened and machiened to suit the rangie cv's then cut and weld the the swivel housing flanges onto the ends of the sals axel tubes would also have to weld the suspension mounts on and would brace it all up with a sq tube section for added strength
cheers
chris
I have a mate selling a complete for 9/RR hybrid axle.
9'' centre with Air locker, RR tubes/hubs/brakes with macnamara drive flanges and axles.
Very well Built.
Dave.
The very best way?...Quote:
Originally Posted by lokka
Dedenbear knuckles and dodge outers with 35 spline CTM axels and unis.
Custom build all the suspension/steering mounts and wheel 40" tyres with about 0% chance of breaking.
And about the same percentage as registering I'd imagineQuote:
Originally Posted by Micka
not so true matt done rite and enginered rite it would pass :D:DQuote:
Originally Posted by dobbo
Dedenbear nuckels ? never heard of em on do u mean defender nuckelsQuote:
Originally Posted by Micka
Dodge outers off which mod dodge with which stub axle and break set up
CTM axels and universals ?never herd of em wat cv's is run with this set up ???
Suspension work is no probs can do myself and if this is better than sals with maxi axels front and rear, maby detroit lokka in rear, run std cv's the early ones which are apparntly preaty strong, std nuckels, std outers and break/stub axle combo .
Front axels would be a special order but not a prob to get so can you explain y this other stuffs beta :D:D
cheers
chris
Basically what I am suggesting is turning the front into a dana60 style. Dedenbear knuckles are aftermarket open knuckles for dana60s. They are massively strong and can provide up to about 50 degrees of steering.:cool: Check out www.abt4x4.com for info on these.Quote:
Originally Posted by lokka
CTM axels and universals (www.ctmracing.com) are the top end units used by the best rock crawlers here and in the US. They are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$...but you will never break them. These can be made to any length required.
In short...the strongest that you can make a salisbury in the front is to go this way. Talk to Sean Lee at ABT about doing this. He can give you all of the info and pricing. But the cost will be HUGE.:eek:
If you want to just make it the strongest you can make it using Rover parts, then I would suggest using MD axels and CVs - axels would need to be custom made I would imagine - and splice the salisbury into a banjo housing. That way, all of the suspension/steering links are already done and you just need axels.;)
Imagine if rover went this way on the series :eek:
Matching front sals with beefy joints and axles. oh well.:(
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
g'day ie the uni yoke on a sals the same or bigger than a rangie:D:DQuote:
Originally Posted by crossy
cheers
chris