TD5 engine life - discuss

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Originally Posted by dobbo

Why would you consider a head gasket as preventative maintanence? I cannot understand why you'd go to so much trouble when the car has only done 200k. The block and head wouldn't get rebuilt at the same time so why bother?

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Because I am going on a 9 month trip around Aus. Its prob overkill, I know, but I've got a young family with me and I don't feel like getting stuck in the bush with any problems.

I can get parts and labour cheap. Money is not too much of an issue. I'll be towing a van with me all the way and I do like to go bush a bit, so I just want everything to be in tip top shape.

I am also overhauling cooling system as well, so it easier to do all at the same time

Im with you John.
Nothing like a headache of a stuffed motor whilst on holidays.From what quite a few have found you may be fixing the inevitable before it happens and preventing further engine damage.
We have a Perth Landrover mechanic (works for a dealer)on here who did mine and plenty of work for others.VERY REASONABLE RATES,does after hours/weekend work.
Kie4 is the man to contact.
Goodluck
Andrew

Don't know if it is true about TD5s but they always say about Tdi's that you don't touch the head until you have to and then you hope they don't have to.

My understanding, which is pretty limitted is that a head gasket goes because the car overheats the head warps and you do a gasket - in otherwords they go becasue something made them go not because they are old or "due for replacement". If you cook the engine the new one might go just as well as the old one.

My two cents says leave the head well alone unless you have good reason to think there is a problem. Let others more knowledgable (which is most anyone) jump in a disagree.

Late 1999 Discovery Td5 auto.

Secondhand with 92,000kms on the clock, now at 130,000kms.

This that has broken

1.Fractured Turbo hose
2.Leaky fuel block
3.Radiator replaced

All failed at about the 120,000km mark so it made for
an expensive service.

Had it serviced yesterday and the sump dropped to check for
the Td5 oil pump loose bolt problem. Apparently mine did have Loctite
on it. Mechanic also said there were two types of bolt an un-keyed and
later modification were the bolt was keyed, mine had the later keyed version.

Tim W

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JamesH

Don't know if it is true about TD5s but they always say about Tdi's that you don't touch the head until you have to and then you hope they don't have to.

My understanding, which is pretty limitted is that a head gasket goes because the car overheats the head warps and you do a gasket - in otherwords they go becasue something made them go not because they are old or "due for replacement". If you cook the engine the new one might go just as well as the old one.

My two cents says leave the head well alone unless you have good reason to think there is a problem. Let others more knowledgable (which is most anyone) jump in a disagree.

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I have cooked it once bout 2/3 years ago. No damage that I know off.

I know its probably a big overkill and I know that if I cooked it again it could do a head gasket easily. Just want to be sure to be sure

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Weimar

Had it serviced yesterday and the sump dropped to check for
the Td5 oil pump loose bolt problem. Apparently mine did have Loctite
on it. Mechanic also said there were two types of bolt an un-keyed and
later modification were the bolt was keyed, mine had the later keyed version.

Tim W

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Tim,

Can you explain or even have a picture of what you mean by keyed?

I have my new bolt and sump gasket ready to install on the weekend and the LR supplied bolt looks like a very normal bolt to me with minimum Loctite on it.

I do not want to be in the position of sump off and the whole deal is wrong :twisted::twisted:

Cheers,
Lyndon.

oil in the wiring harness from the ecu to the injectors.!!!!!!!mine has it so need to replace the harness. any suggestions on how to stop in happening again. I had thought a simple loop (like in a diff breather tube) would create a pocket to stop the progress back from the engine to the ecu (even though its lower than the engine) but not sure if the harness will allow enough give to do that.

ideas???:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DRUT

oil in the wiring harness from the ecu to the injectors.!!!!!!!mine has it so need to replace the harness. any suggestions on how to stop in happening again. I had thought a simple loop (like in a diff breather tube) would create a pocket to stop the progress back from the engine to the ecu (even though its lower than the engine) but not sure if the harness will allow enough give to do that.

ideas???:D

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I thought that the oil movement was due to capillary action. I'm sure if I'm incorrect someone will clarify.

If it is capillary action a loop isn't going to stop it, you need something to interrupt the flow - blknight.aus suggested a joiner and a drain, I think.

I thought something like a great chunk of silicone to separate the loom. I guess you'd need the loop to drain from the lump of silicone.

Cheers
Simon.

After thinking about this a bit more it seems that other than the oil pump bolt the TD5 engine should do at least 300K without a complete failure, and more if serviced.

It seems to be all the bolt on bits that fail, radiator fuel pump, water pump oil in the harness and so on. The worset part is these parts seem to have a life of up to 150K and some are expensive to replace.

So if you are like me wanting to keep the car for up to about 250K it becomes expensive compared to a Jap 4wd. Before everyone jumps down my throat I know plenty of people with Jap 4wd's that have done 300K plus without having to replace very much at all.

However I still love my Discovery.

The bottom end of the motor seems fine (apart from the bolt issue).

The head is a problem though. :(