Brake bleeding problem..HELP!

i open the bleed nipples...one at a time....after bleeding....and just let some fluid out.....
bubbles will come out first....then clear fluid.....then close off the bleed nipple....this is gravity bleeding......

i do at least 2 brake fluid changes a day on all sorts of different cars....and i simply just gravity bleed them.....
i let the fluid drip through on its own till the new/clean fluid comes through
there will always be one or two cars here and there that dont want to bleed this way.....
then a foot on the brake pedal is required to get the fluid flowing......then a gravity bleed.....
but only ever have one nipple open at any one time.......and keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the reservior.....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by chazza

Series brakes can be worst things ever to bleed!

If you have trouble getting the air out, try stamping on the pedal as hard as you can, while your assistant does as everyone else has mentioned. I have proven this on a 11A and a 111; stamping really works! I read a 11A manual which advised to; "depress the pedal smartly"; they are right it works beautifully.

---

if there is air in the wheel cylinders.....pressing the pedal slowly will only compress the air......it could be trapped off to one side in the cylinder.....

by pressing the pedal a bit quicker.....it will create a bit of turbulence within the cylinder and move the air bubble around.....
hopefully finding its way out through the bleed nipple.....

different systems will require different methods for bleeding.......
you just have to try each method till you find which one works for your specific vehicle.....

I'll back Zook on this one, (and by inference all the people he backed) with the exception of rovers that have the remote booster fitted (usually in the front left of the engine bay instead of on top of the drivers foot well attached to the master cylinder)

Bleeding these can be a nightmare gravity never worked for me nor did the stamp the pedal smartly thing...

Using a proper vacume bleeder or putting vacume on the booster was really the only thing that did the trick.

But Ive only done 2 rovers with this setup and knowing my luck have probabley gotten to do it on the only 2 in australia that werent going to play the game

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

i open the bleed nipples...one at a time....after bleeding....and just let some fluid out.....
bubbles will come out first....then clear fluid.....then close off the bleed nipple....this is gravity bleeding......

i do at least 2 brake fluid changes a day on all sorts of different cars....and i simply just gravity bleed them.....
i let the fluid drip through on its own till the new/clean fluid comes through
there will always be one or two cars here and there that dont want to bleed this way.....
then a foot on the brake pedal is required to get the fluid flowing......then a gravity bleed.....
but only ever have one nipple open at any one time.......and keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the reservior.....

---

I've forgotten......but does "gravity bleeding" only work with disc brakes?......

....also is it OK/will it work with "residual pressure valves"?......I've forgotten that too!:(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I'll back Zook on this one, (and by inference all the people he backed) with the exception of rovers that have the remote booster fitted (usually in the front left of the engine bay instead of on top of the drivers foot well attached to the master cylinder)

Bleeding these can be a nightmare gravity never worked for me nor did the stamp the pedal smartly thing...

Using a proper vacume bleeder or putting vacume on the booster was really the only thing that did the trick.

But Ive only done 2 rovers with this setup and knowing my luck have probabley gotten to do it on the only 2 in australia that werent going to play the game

---

If you're talking about PBR VH44's yes they ARE a pain!:mad: .....you need to bleed the remote cylinders on these and the bleed screws are usually frozen solid!:mad:

With these a Pressure Bleeder attached to Master Cylinder is the best way to go.;)

Also adjust the shoes up all the way up so brakes are completely locked!.....then bleed......then after you have bled them all, re-adjust brakes to correct drag/clearance;)

BTW Bleed in THIS sequence: Fully bleed Master Cylinder..... then Remote Booster [e.g. VH44] if fitted..... then the drums in the correct sequence for that model.