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Thread: Disco 2 TD5 tips to improve reliability

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Disco 2 TD5 tips to improve reliability

    Talk about love/hate. When my 2001 TD5 Disco2 auto is going as designed it is a beautuful machine and I love it. Its comfortable, economical and the engine punches above it's weight, helped by a chip upgrade. But it never lasts and now it has let me down badly twice, each time when I've been towing a caravan (just to make things really difficult). The first bad failure was the turbo modulator which prevented the turbo from charging the engine and last week the dreaded burst hose from the auto gearbox allowing trans fluid to spew out all over the car ,the front of the caravan and the road. Needless to say I came to a rapid halt at the side of the road. Thanks to RAC.
    This can't go on, so what can/should I do to this machine to make it more bullet-proof. I feed it the best oils, coolants, fluids, filters etc. I've had the oil in the wiring harness problem fixed and I'm aware of the oil pump loctite problem and intend to get that checked but what other tips are there to improve reliability. Are there some simple but effective things that can be done to hoses, radiator, water pump, power steering pump and hoses , fuel pump and lines etc etc before SWMBO says enough and drops the guillotine.

    Russell

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kingaroy Qld
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    I think you have just been damn unlucky.Ive had my 99 TD% Disco from New and Ive only had to replace the fuel pump and electronic Auto gear selector.Ive done 155,000klms and she feels like it will gon on forever.

    Keep with it, they are definatly worth thier weight in gold
    Dave Kemp
    S2 TD5 Disco
    S1 V8 Disco
    S111 SWB 1974 original

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Melbourne
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    Ahhhh Russell, you got a Friday Disco like me.

    Mine is 2 years old, done 30,000km and I have had :

    -2 air compressors fail (cracked the hose near the A/C muffler and sucked in water)
    -3 idler pulley bearings
    -1 ACE pulley bearing
    -1 cruise control module fail
    -1 DC joint fail (which caused the front prop shaft to drop out at 100km/h and crack the auto transmission)
    -2 ABS sensors fail
    -Rear transfer case seal fail

    + I am sure there are other problems I have already forgotten.

    I don't think there is anything you can do except keep checking the major components for anything that MIGHT go wrong

  4. #4
    MickS Guest
    Russell

    You've either just gotta bite the bullet and hang onto it, or get something else. But at least you know this one and what you've done to it.

    I'm the second owner of mine. It had the full service history from the first owner. I've continued the full service upkeep, but in the time I've had mine, I've had:

    * the oil pump bolt go, requiring a replacement motor;
    * injector harness (twice - the replacement motor, with 30,000 k's on it, needed doing after a few thousand k's);
    * fuel pump;
    * fuel tank out of it to clean the sludge;
    * ignition switch;
    * front o/s electric window (the front n/s is on the way now too);
    * air bag suspension on o/s;

    and other numerous problems. I've stopped counting how much I've spent.
    So, I guess from a reliability point of view, I'm not the best person to comment. I'm sure there are LR owners who have been had better luck than me. But these things can happen to a car 5 minutes out of the showroom - any car. When we were coming back in my uncle's patrol after my oil pump bolt went earlier this year, I saw a brand new landcruiser with a caravan on the back, pulled over, bonnet up, mum on the mobile. You never know. We're going away again in a couple of weeks, and I probably won't relax until we get back home!

    I've spent too much on mine now - so I have to hang onto it to get my money back, because I won't if I trade/sell it.

    Keep the services up, and if you suspect something's wrong, get it looked at. There are also some very knowledgeable people on this forum who will probably give you some tips - hang in there.

    Mick

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
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    If not already done:
    1. put greasable unis in the DC in the front prop-shaft.
    2. check the condition of the flexible joint on the rear prop-shaft and replace if cracking.
    3. replace the turbo-to-intercooler hoses with later versions or after-market silicon ones.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  6. #6
    Wilbur Guest
    This will probably not be a popular suggestion.

    A really, really, REALLY experienced Land Rover mechanic has seen it all, and will know what to check for future possible disasters. In all likelihood, the burst transmission hose would have been changed before the bursting event.

    One of the charms of Land Rovers of old is that they were designed to be home maintained. They were simple and strong, and the workshop manuals were a work of art. They even told the home mechanic which tools to grab to do a particular job.

    Our modern desire, pushed on to us by the marketing gentry, has manufacturers fitting everything form digital bum-wipers to doof doof noise makers with the result that the modern Land Rover is not well suited to home maintenance - at least not all the time. A periodic check-over by the above mentioned experienced LR wrench could be the answer with early warning alerts.

    Don't get me wrong - home maintenance is still the essence of true motoring, and in-estimably useful in preparing the owner for possible troubles en route.

    Likewise, don't get me wrong about modern Land Rovers - a bit complex, yes, but still bloody wonderful, still strong, and still simple compared with some.

    Cheers all,

    Paul

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Brisbane, Inner East.
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    Well said. Much of the equipment in modern cars is not essential to the performance of the job of providing transportation. Many items are what we in the trade often called "selling tools". GM used to call many of the factory options "comfort and convenience equipment". I can do without carpets, a/c, entertainment systems, electric radiator fans, ABS brakes, self levelling suspensions, numerous interior lights, bum warmers, electric seats, electric windows and so on.
    URSUSMAJOR

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yass NSW
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    The big thing I have learn't is know exactly what fluids are in you engine and make certain they are correct. They are a great engine but some of the parts are very expensive. Look after it and it should be good to you. It might also be worth getting to know some of the local fabricators. My oil cooler is custom made and should outlast the rest of the engine.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    I have found the best way to make sure your Land Rover doesn't break down. Mine has managed not to break for the last three weeks.

    Just don't drive it.



    Joking people.....just joking.....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Mt Eliza, Vic
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    I have had my little beastie for four years now and done 100,000km. Its a '03 model (the first batch built in Sep '02) TD5. I have driven it very carefully and serviced it regularly and apart from a few self inflicted issues I've not had any real problems.

    Self inflicted?

    Rolled at six weeks! Some idiot within the repair chain ran the engine with oil in the combustion chamber (tends to happen when sitting upside down for a few hours). Result was a new engine block and conrods. During the rebuild the head was placed face down on a flat surface, complete with injectors. A complete set of injectors later...all under insurance (soon after my little incident CGU pulled out of insuring 4x4's) Would have been cheaper to replace the car!

    Made a few mods as I got a little more serious. Maxi axles, 4.11 C&P's, ARB lockers frt & rr, bull bar, winch, steering protector, rock rails, rear bumper, 33" JT2's etc. Consequences...

    Stove in the rh rear side on a bank. Repaired under insurance.
    Toolangi mud did in my alternator, tensioner pulley and tensioner. Some belts later and cause and effect analysis its seems to be working again.
    Got a little serious on Rocky Track in Toolangi and put some extra dints and light scratches along the lh side. Oh and did I say that my ticker is starting to wear out due to the constant adrenalin rushes?

    I'm now looking at getting really serious, but the missus is begining to worry me, she has stopped feeding me....I think she believes I have already passed onto the great 4x4 heaven in the sky!

    My Disco will outlive me!

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