Thread: Still a little wobble and a pull to the right :)

I guess that I would check the tie rod ends, to see if there is any play.

I do not understand about "tightening Steering column Unis" . Was the steering column loose on the splines into the steering box or at the top? There is no way to actually tighten the unis. They must be replaced if dry.

There are only a set number of areas that can affect steering and you have looked at most.
Maybe you have to go over and double check.

I have found that it is not possible to successfully reset the preload on old swivel bearings as they get corrugations in the outer tracks, called "brinnelling". You have to fit new ones or the preload may seem correct but at straight ahead is loose.
So the check list is
1 check adjustment of steering box, which is done via the setscrew on top
2 Check all tie rod ends for play
3 Check Panhard rod bushes
4 Check swivel bearing preload and replace if loose. ( This wlill also cause the swivel seals to leak)
5 Wheel bearings( but they would have to be really loose to cause a shimmy)
6 Check steering unis, although these will be a givaway as the column will rattle badly on bumps, or have stiff spots when turned.
7 I have heard but do not really agree with. Check lower holes in shock mounts on axle, and have welded if elongated.

If you have over about 2inches of lift at the front it will always seem light and "wandery"due to no castor.

I spent a couple of years trying to find an elusive "kick" in my 92 Rangie, and finally found that the RH top swivel outer bearing had not been fully installed ( banged onto its seat)from new.!!!
Regards Philip A

Thanks Philip for your help,

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I guess that I would check the tie rod ends, to see if there is any play.

What's the best way to check these ? had a look when I had them off to do the swivel's and they seemed ok to turn.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I do not understand about "tightening Steering column Unis" . Was the steering column loose on the splines into the steering box or at the top? There is no way to actually tighten the unis. They must be replaced if dry.

Not sure, this is what the mechanic's said to me, but since you mentioned it I've had a look at them and see what you mean ! Will have another look and see if there is any play in them. Don't really want to replace them because you have to buy the whole shaft and i think there around $200-$300.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

There are only a set number of areas that can affect steering and you have looked at most.
Maybe you have to go over and double check.

I have found that it is not possible to successfully reset the preload on old swivel bearings as they get corrugations in the outer tracks, called "brinnelling". You have to fit new ones or the preload may seem correct but at straight ahead is loose.
So the check list is
1 check adjustment of steering box, which is done via the setscrew on top

I Know this was pretty spot on once I got it right.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

2 Check all tie rod ends for play

What's the best way to check these ?

Originally Posted by PhilipA

3 Check Panhard rod bushes

Might need to be nipped up again, but bushes are Brand NEW.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

4 Check swivel bearing preload and replace if loose. ( This wlill also cause the swivel seals to leak)

When you say loose, do u mean the swivel moves, bit like a loose wheel bearing ? Will check the preload again though as this was hard to get both right !! as I, have found those fish scales you use to check the pre-loads are crap, out by 1 to 1/2 kilo most of the time. Might need a proper dial one.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

5 Wheel bearings( but they would have to be really loose to cause a shimmy)

Fronts where originally a bit loose, but are spot on now as I fixed them the other day.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

6 Check steering unis, although these will be a givaway as the column will rattle badly on bumps, or have stiff spots when turned.

Don't think it rattle's but it will make a noise when going from lock to lock, usually a bit of grease fixes that.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

7 I have heard but do not really agree with. Check lower holes in shock mounts on axle, and have welded if elongated.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

If you have over about 2inches of lift at the front it will always seem light and "wandery"due to no castor.

I have a 2" lift, but should say it's more 1 1/2" now.


Would not haveing the front sway bars on cause any of these problems ?


Thanks again.

Were the swivel bearing ok Matbor? I had problems with mine, the problem was the panhard bushes but in the process of diagnosing the problem i found that the right hand front swivel hubs top bearing had collapsed, the steering tracked straight after i fixed that. Matt

Originally Posted by matbor

The problem :
At high speed i.e anything above 80 to 90 kms the steering is not wobbling, but is still a little lose, i.e I have to keep correcting it, a little play in it, or maybe too sensitive now, sorry hard to explain.

Possibly the wheel alignment a tad 'toe in'. Did they give you a readout of the settings? If so can you read off the specs?

Originally Posted by oldzook

Possibly the wheel alignment a tad 'toe in'. Did they give you a readout of the settings? If so can you read off the specs?

nope, no print out or read outs, said that it was set to 0, i told it should be set to 2 as per the manual and he said no need, and this the guy that one of the Land Rover mechanic's use !

Originally Posted by Ace

Were the swivel bearing ok Matbor? I had problems with mine, the problem was the panhard bushes but in the process of diagnosing the problem i found that the right hand front swivel hubs top bearing had collapsed, the steering tracked straight after i fixed that. Matt

yeah there ok, checked them when I had it apart !

Originally Posted by matbor

nope, no print out or read outs, said that it was set to 0, i told it should be set to 2 as per the manual and he said no need, and this the guy that one of the Land Rover mechanic's use !

Yup I would also say 0-2mm out. Be worth it to double check it yourself if they took a shortcut & didn't do a runout calibration or the machine is out of calibration, believe me those shops can get pretty complacent.

To check the tie rod ends, get a mate to rock the steering .
While it is rocking place your hand over each tie rod end so that you have one part on the steering arm and one part on the end itself.
If there is ANY up and down movement of the tie rod end relative to the steering arm the tie rod end is no good.
When I have replaced my swivel bearings , there was no play in them, which was discernable by rocking etc.Its hard to test them this way as there is a lot of damping from the disc pads and the swivel seal.
You only need a tiny bit of play to be amplified by the distance from the swivel bush to the tyre contact patch.
To explain better, at straight ahead the rollers always sit at the same spot on the outer race. Over time naturally an indentation will develop where all the rollers sit, especially on the bottom bearing that the car's weight sits on, so it becomes loose , AT THAT ONE POSITION. As soon as you turn the wheel just a little , the bearing will climb up the slope, then fall into the next one etc etc.
If you then reshim the swivels , you may have it correct on average , but the reality is that it may still be loose at straight ahead, then tight, then loose etc. Ever ridden a motorcycle with worn steering head bearings? Same thing.

The worst I felt is that a mechanic once had brain fade and left the top cap finger tight, then locked the plates. I hit a big bump and the shimmy was so bad it blew the seal out of the input shaft of the steering box.

Re alignment. I always find that +2MM toe OUT at the rim provides a better steering feel than parallel. If I recall correctly, it also reduced shimmy.
Re front anti roll bar. I drove mine for a long time without and recently refitted it. I think there is a minor difference in straight line stability but nothing dramatic.
I can only guess but I believe you will improve your steering feel with new swivels. By the way, you have checked or replaced the steering damper I hope.
Regards Philip A
Regards Philip A