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As i said, yes i cleaned the points, well numerous times now, but the old ones are back on now, the plugs are all right, i just put them in a didnt damage them putting them in, the cap is new and yes the carbon block is free and works, the leads are right, it was running fine until i replaced the points and condensor. yes its the same way, i cant actually figure out another way they could go anyway, the coil is not firing at all,
It is igntion related, the miss was dodgy leads, the resistances were all over the place, was backfiring through the aircleaner, replaced leads, cap rotor button and coil and was running great, no miss, no backfire, but i though id chage the points etc so it was all new.
I have gone through every step more than 100 times tonight and last night and im goin insane.
The wire from the points to coil has been damaged and repaired before and i put a new terminal on it becasue it was stuffed again, and the eye is smaller than idea, it is to short before let alone now and i dont know what is should do to fix it now. the ground form the sliding base to the fixed base was broken so i made a new one.
I put a piece of insulater tube over the post on the points so the condensor wire and the other one couldnt touch the post to earth out and insulation between the nut and stuff so i could make it not ground.
Could i make up a complete new wire from the coil to the points and does it need to be a certain type of wire.
The combination in the diagram is how it is set up now i think, ive set it up so many different ways to try it.
But i just cant understand why i cant get anything from the coil at any stage.
Wont fire at all.
Do they have a ballast resister somewhere, i cant see one.
and the timing sounds right as it turns over.
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Is there power at the positive side of the coil with the ignition on? I had a problem with my 78 model where the power for the coil came from a fuse box inside on the LHS firewall. Took ages to find what was wrong. The car would drive ok then suddenly stop for a period then go again until it just stopped all together. Turned out to be the strange design of the brass terminals in the fuse box and them being made of two pieces of brass side by side. What was happening was when the terminals got warm they would separate cutting power to the fuse, I replaced fuses heaps of times but could not work out why it stopped until the last time when it stopped and would not go again. The brass terminals separated by a few thou and did not go back again when they cooled. Bought a new fuse box (aftermarket), changed all the wires to the new one and never had another problem. Took months of embarrasing roadside stops to work that one out.
Ian
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G'day RRV80 :)
Sounds like you need new coil to dist low tension wire and new insulators for the points assy, I would suggest that you contact Kevin Baker at KB Classic Spares @ Witta just outside Maleny he is the Lucas specialist for Qld, should be in the Sunshine Coast Phone book, no he is not on Computer, tell him that you are AULRO member;) as he knows Dave(incisor) and I well he carries about 50,000 Lucas spares:)
P.S try to be able to give him the Distributor part No, stamped on the side.
Bung-Tiddley
Uncle Ho (Kevin H)
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The ballast resistor is a white ceramic looking thing with a wire connected each end. follow the hot (+) wire back from the dizzy. The resistor sits between power and points, to cut voltage to 8V for a resisted coil. Look at the back side, it is hollow, with what looks like a small bar radiator coil in it. You will easily see if it is broken. I do not really suspect it, if the engine will not fire at all. Resisted ignitions usually have a bypass to give 12V for starting then drop back to 8V for running, this is actually done in the ignition switch itself. 1 power wire to the coil, no resistor, 2 power wires to the coil, resisted ignition. If the resistor is burned, the engine will kick into life, then die, as soon as the ignition switch is dropped from the start position. This was the case for me some years ago with a Honda Gold Wing. Honda wanted my first born as a deposit for the part, so I went to a wreckers and bought a valiant unit, fitted it and all Okay again.
As for making a new wire, yes, the special kind of wire that electricity goes through, must be used.
That is, any, auto wire will do the job. You don't need starter cable type stuff, but, don't use speaker wire or such either. Good old K-mart auto wire is ASA.
Shorty.
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if you run a wire from the -ve side of the coil and earth it out......with the ignition on.....
as soon as you lift it off the earth....you should get a spark......
if you get a spark here.....then the problem is between the coil and the dizzy......
a common place for the low tension lead to break unnoticed is where it goes into the dizzy through the rubber block......where it splits up to run to the condenser......
slide it out of the rubber and check the soldering.......or make up a whole new low tension lead.......
a thought i just got......is that the new condenser may be faulty.....it may have a dead short in it.....
have you tried with it disconnected or with the old one fitted.....?
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Shot the points into the bin along with the coil replace the whole lot with a crane fire ball optical ignition either a 700 or 3000 series set up and run either a msd blaster coi or a crane jobbie should be able to fit it your self as the instructions are simple then never worry about points again ive done mine about 5 mths ago and just set ne up in paulio's rangie ute and he was as happy as a pig in poo like me this set up will amase you when set rite as both my veh and paul's behave so much beta
cheers
chris
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has new coil GT40R, was workin perfect, only about 1 day old, has new leads 3 days old, including coil to dizzy, the old condensor is installled along with th eold points.
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A petrol motor is a petrol motor, with points and a coil.
While i would love to add something to help, but been there done that, my guess is the condensor, and possibly the power to the points has been earthed or under an insulator and not creating a path for the power.
If it was working with your step by step approach then stopped just reverese and go back to where you were before it stopped.
As far as your boss goes( you did say he was a mechanic) ,sorry to say, i wouldn;'t feed him. I was under the impression courses were generic then they specialised.
Whilst never having been trained in the fine arts of automotive engine repair you don't have to be a genius when it comes to working on them, time,patience and lots of hands on experience is sufficient for the average backyarder, as is shown by the help you have been getting so far.
I was never aware that toyota mechanics didn't know how to repair internal combustion engines of another brand.
john
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ok mate, back to basics...
all of this assumes you can get 12v at the supply side of the coil.....
pull the leads off of the coil and fit a globe across the terminals of the coil
put power on both sides of the coil (straight from the battey -ve and +ve) and with the coil in its bracket and your test plug fitted and suitabley earthed take the earth off of the coil... get spark? cool. if not you may need a new coil but dont panic yet, the coil may be alright just not compatable with the globe to collapse the mag bottle trick,,
with the coil disconnected and the condenser disconnected connect your light bulb in place of the coil in the normal ignition circut... wind the motor over by hand with the ign on... does the bulb flash? (make sure the bulb still works if its the same one from the previous test)
no? shot points, points wiring or ign down to the points... jumper the power to the globe striaght from the battery and give that a go...
yes? faulty condensor... replace the condensor in the circut and try agian...
light blinks?
yes its a wiring fault to the coil from the points
no its a crook/wrong type of condensor replace
let me know how all of that goes for ya.
