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Extractors on a turbo? Mate... the turbo gets the 5 cylinder feed from the engine and spools the turbine...Quote:
Originally Posted by eckolsim
Closest to extractors option would be custom turbo header and bigger dump pipe off the turbine housing.
3" pipe off the housing would be better than wasting time and money on the header itself as this is not critical in a diesel (offroad) turbo.
I know your td5 is chipped... but do you tow stuff like caravans/boats?Quote:
Originally Posted by hiline
have you guys noticed that its only the ones that have been chipped that have had a problem so far.....?
There's been quite a few standard cars through here with the same problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
It's just another one of those Land Rover characteristics ;) .
I'd agree with scouse, i get just as many chipped ones as I do unchipped ones. Just out of interest, the most chipped Td5 I work on, a 165Kw 480Nm 'Fender with the big intercooler etc, lasted to 200,000km until a stud broke, and the warpage was minimal!
And the cost of machining the worst one we had ? $140 because of the number of passes required and the set up time. $40 was an absolute bargain!!!
This is a problem that most Td5's will experience at some time, chipped or not.I would recommend though that AS SOON AS you hear a noise or see a stud missing, do it immediately. This can save some $ with machining manifold faces etc.
JC
Is it a big job to get the manifold off?Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
Not really, but the A/C compressor has to be undone and moved out of the way a little to gain access to the front bolts/ studs, the EGR pipe on the front of number 1 branch can be a bit difficult due to the possibility of the tiny socket head cap screws breaking off when undoing... and the easiest way to do it is to remove the turbo from the flange and leave it attached to the front pipe, as you will have to remove the oil drain from the turbo otherwise, and this can be a hassle to line up/bolt on afterwards. You still have to remove the oil feed banjo bolt, but it is quite easy.
Heat shield bolt from the back (horizontal) is a bit of a pain, DON'T round it off, you only get one chance with it!
Enjoy.
JC
As a landie owner, I think it is imperitive to DIY :) if the manifold is soo prone to the problem, maybe you could consider a DIY 'upgrade'
they make it look simple:
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2604/article.html
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2605/article.html
of course it aint, but it LOOKS simple...
lots of other articles on improving performance on that webpage, everything from intercoolers, exhaust mods etc etc... in simple English that anyone can understand - maybe even Toyota drivers! :p
Has anyone any idea what comes first when a Td5 manifold warps? Do the studs fail letting the manifold warp, or does the manifold warp causing the studs to fail?
I know this might be a chicken and egg situation but there must be a reason, and solution to the warping issue.
I have just gone through this problem and I don't know if anyone else has noticed that the surface that the nuts tighten up on the manifold is not parallel to face of the manifold. It is a rough casting surface that actually slopes up to 1mm difference on the width of the nut. Basically as you tighten the nut it tilts the stud, I personally feel this is distorting the studs and causing them to break. I have had mine machined parallel, and I can tell you now that the nuts tention up a lot smoother. If you notice where the turbo fits to the manifold this machining has been done but I can not understand why they never did it to the other side of the manifold.
Anyway thats my theory, time will tell.:eek: