Thread: warped exhaust manifolds...

Originally Posted by hiline

i've had mine done 4 times now

but we have put 4 big bolts in each end

so its been fine for 6 months now(fingers crossed)

I know your td5 is chipped... but do you tow stuff like caravans/boats?

have you guys noticed that its only the ones that have been chipped that have had a problem so far.....?

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

have you guys noticed that its only the ones that have been chipped that have had a problem so far.....?

There's been quite a few standard cars through here with the same problem.

It's just another one of those Land Rover characteristics .

I'd agree with scouse, i get just as many chipped ones as I do unchipped ones. Just out of interest, the most chipped Td5 I work on, a 165Kw 480Nm 'Fender with the big intercooler etc, lasted to 200,000km until a stud broke, and the warpage was minimal!
And the cost of machining the worst one we had ? $140 because of the number of passes required and the set up time. $40 was an absolute bargain!!!
This is a problem that most Td5's will experience at some time, chipped or not.I would recommend though that AS SOON AS you hear a noise or see a stud missing, do it immediately. This can save some $ with machining manifold faces etc.

JC

Originally Posted by justinc

I'd agree with scouse, i get just as many chipped ones as I do unchipped ones. Just out of interest, the most chipped Td5 I work on, a 165Kw 480Nm 'Fender with the big intercooler etc, lasted to 200,000km until a stud broke, and the warpage was minimal!
And the cost of machining the worst one we had ? $140 because of the number of passes required and the set up time. $40 was an absolute bargain!!!
This is a problem that most Td5's will experience at some time, chipped or not.I would recommend though that AS SOON AS you hear a noise or see a stud missing, do it immediately. This can save some $ with machining manifold faces etc.

JC

Is it a big job to get the manifold off?

Not really, but the A/C compressor has to be undone and moved out of the way a little to gain access to the front bolts/ studs, the EGR pipe on the front of number 1 branch can be a bit difficult due to the possibility of the tiny socket head cap screws breaking off when undoing... and the easiest way to do it is to remove the turbo from the flange and leave it attached to the front pipe, as you will have to remove the oil drain from the turbo otherwise, and this can be a hassle to line up/bolt on afterwards. You still have to remove the oil feed banjo bolt, but it is quite easy.
Heat shield bolt from the back (horizontal) is a bit of a pain, DON'T round it off, you only get one chance with it!

Enjoy.

JC

As a landie owner, I think it is imperitive to DIY if the manifold is soo prone to the problem, maybe you could consider a DIY 'upgrade'
they make it look simple:

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2604/article.html

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2605/article.html

of course it aint, but it LOOKS simple...

lots of other articles on improving performance on that webpage, everything from intercoolers, exhaust mods etc etc... in simple English that anyone can understand - maybe even Toyota drivers!

Has anyone any idea what comes first when a Td5 manifold warps? Do the studs fail letting the manifold warp, or does the manifold warp causing the studs to fail?

I know this might be a chicken and egg situation but there must be a reason, and solution to the warping issue.