Thread: 85 County caliper rebuild - parts sources, tips?

Where are you located?

its not that hard in reality bit can be messy and swearword inducing during dissasembly...

full PPE and a good compressor with a fine holed rubber nozzle is the go

pull the caliper down as per the manual
let the fluid drain out, cover it with a rag and bind it loosely. put the nozzle into the fluid hole and give it a squirt. have a pencil eraser handy to push onto the brake fluid gallery holes as the pistions pop out and you loose pressure.

clean up (very fine emory paper to descuff the bores, pay attention to seal orientation on assembly and then reassemble.. install and bleed, then bleed and bleed.. (landrover brakes can be funny buggers to bleed)

take extra precuations that you dont upset your brake pressure differentiator valvey thingy, some wont reset easily, (normaly cause they are contaiminated)

but these are brakes... IF you have ANY doubt about your ability to get it right first go round (well excluding the bleed) DONT do it. Take it to your local friendly brake expert and give him some dollars.


That warning is worth repeating...

but these are brakes... IF you have ANY doubt about your ability to get it right first go round (well excluding the bleed) DONT do it.

[quote=mark2;484299]I strongly suspect I need to rebuild the front calipers in my 110 county as the pistons must be seized - on one side of the caliper 2 of pistons are all the way out and the other 2 are in - pads are also worn unevenly.

This dont sound good id be lookin at the proportioning valve as well

Originally Posted by D110V8D

Where are you located?

This would also help as we then could maby direct you to a reputable repairer

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

its not that hard in reality bit can be messy and swearword inducing during dissasembly...

Yep wat he said as brakes can be a real pain in da ar5e

full PPE and a good compressor with a fine holed rubber nozzle is the go

Also were sum good rubber gloves the type ya mum or missus use for the washin of the bottles as brake fluid dose wonders for ya skin


pull the caliper down as per the manual
let the fluid drain out, cover it with a rag and bind it loosely. put the nozzle into the fluid hole and give it a squirt. have a pencil eraser handy to push onto the brake fluid gallery holes as the pistions pop out and you loose pressure.

clean up (very fine emory paper to descuff the bores, pay attention to seal orientation on assembly and then reassemble.. install and bleed, then bleed and bleed.. (landrover brakes can be funny buggers to bleed)

take extra precuations that you dont upset your brake pressure differentiator valvey thingy, some wont reset easily, (normaly cause they are contaiminated)
Im sure this thingy you mention is the proportioning valve and it directs fluid to either the front or back by way of a ball valve inside to put more pressure onthe front when breaking so that the back of the veh dosent skid and step outa line which can be scary in a landie

but these are brakes... IF you have ANY doubt about your ability to get it right first go round (well excluding the bleed) DONT do it. Take it to your local friendly brake expert and give him some dollars.


That warning is worth repeating...

but these are brakes... IF you have ANY doubt about your ability to get it right first go round (well excluding the bleed) DONT do it.

As dave said unless your handy with a spaner dont do it your self unless you have someone in the know help out you have been warned

Good luck with it cheers for now

Chris

Thanks for the advice. Although I doubt its the proportioning valve - I wasnt clear but meant pistons on one side of each caliper, not side of the car....also the circuits on my model are front & rear, not diagonal.
I'm in QLD, more looking for the best place to source the parts, location is not really an issue as its only going to be a v small package and easy to post from anywhere in OZ.

I'm reasonably competent with a spanner (managed to replace the entire chassis with a galvanised one on my own) however have never rebuilt disc calipers before. I've lined up a ex mechanic mate who can help me but I need to source the parts myself as he's no longer in the industry. I'd also consider stainless steel pistons if the price is affordable and it will prevent the problem reoccurring.

Given the age of your county, why not treat yourself to new flexible brake lines as well. I had the exact same thing happen to my 83 rangie, and in the end it was a deterioriated flexible brake line that had blocked the inlet for the 2nd set of pistons: hence two out and two in. The insides had come away and flowed downhill to the caliper and blocked it up. The pistons came up good as new with some ordinary steel wool, and the seals cleaned up well (using clean brake fluid only and a toothbrush). The most important thing is having pipe spanners in the correct size- using ordinary spanners on pipe fittings is not good - been there done that.

I did the job last year on my 110 and learned many new swear words in the process, if not invented new ones! To be honest, I would rather pay for a new/reconditioned part than doing the job again, although it can be done by yourself. I have nothing to compare it with, but cannot believe that a reconditioned caliper comes much more expensive than the separate parts. But you are able to avoid the bl***y work!!!

Just my five cents...

Originally Posted by Jojo

I did the job last year on my 110 and learned many new swear words in the process, if not invented new ones! To be honest, I would rather pay for a new/reconditioned part than doing the job again, although it can be done by yourself. I have nothing to compare it with, but cannot believe that a reconditioned caliper comes much more expensive than the separate parts. But you are able to avoid the bl***y work!!!

Just my five cents...

90%of the time you dont need to replace the caliper or the piston, thats where the saving is its about $30 for the bits you need if they aint stuffed.