Reply With QuoteHi Simon,
I've been thinking to use spray foam too, but after research decided to go with Thermo-Tec staff like Acoustic and Heat Shield mats. It costs... but does the job very well (according to what people say).
Cheers,
Ruslan
Moderator
I was thinking of going a little wild the spray foam as sound deadening.
Anyone tried? Success, failure, tips?
My idea was around the tcase to try and kill some of the horrible noise. Then anywhere else if it worked.
I was going to lay down a bit of gladwrap or similar, then the foam, then peel the lot off and glue back on with something easy to remove if it all goes pear shaped.
I'm a little worried about the foam sealing in moisture, and of course how heat/oil resistant the foam is.
Comments please.
Cheers,
Simon.
Hi Simon,
I've been thinking to use spray foam too, but after research decided to go with Thermo-Tec staff like Acoustic and Heat Shield mats. It costs... but does the job very well (according to what people say).
Cheers,
Ruslan
ChatterBox
SubscriberI tried one of the spray on ones in my wheel arches, never made any difference.
The Ugly Duckling-
03 Defender Xtreme, now reduced by 30%.
a master of invisibleness.
Swaggie
Originally Posted by abaddonxi
I know people who have used it in the past - they said it worked fairly well.
There are 2 types of foam available - open cell and closed cell. Make sure you get closed cell as it doesn't absorb moisture.
OldBushie
whats wrong with the proper sound deadener you can buy......
it comes in spray cans or 4 litre tins......which can be sprayed on or brushed on.......
or.....another option is a product designed for ute trays....a spray on liner....
i think rhino liner is one brand....
discowhite may have a bit more info on this....he used it on the 90.......reckons he can hear the missus now.....
Wizard
how about a decent layer of rhinolining? (or equivalent DIY like hippo liner) it sticks... so moisture can't get under it and has sound deadening properties too - I'm very tempted to do this all over the lower interior of my county (even inside the doors) as rust/noise/heat reducing barrier...
there was also a great article in the january LRM on noise reduction for a series 3 using materials precut from a closed cell foam material made by noise killer: http://www.noisekiller.co.uk/sound_p...ehicles_01.php
there is also this roundup of common (US) sound deadener materials:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ which gives good technical info about materials and types...
good luck!
Wizard
hmm defenderzook beat me too it
I pulled up the carpets, painted the inside passenger compartments with sound deadener. ( smelt strong for about a week till it properly cured) the got some rubber waffle carpet underlay (about 6 mm) underlay, laid that and then relaid the OEm rubber mat underlay and carpet back.
Also added some extra rubber underlay on top of the sound deadener rubber under the centre console. Helped quite a bit.
Also the sound deadenere water proofed the cabin floor as I noticed the A/c drain pipe can over flow when blocked and notced some rust developing under the carpet.
OldBushie
I used some fibreglass matting designed for noise absorption from a place that makes sound deadening blankets and stuff. It was about an inch thick but compacts down well, works real well, drowns out the chev sound
RoverLord
You need to think about how the various products work. There are several factors that affect the apparent sound level inside a vehicle, apart from the amount of sound actually generated.
1. (easiest to deal with) Panels vibrating due to engine or other vibration. Change the vibration characteristics of the panel by tightening the screws that hold it, or applying something to it that increases the mass or rigidity or both of the panel to move its resonant frequency away from the frequency of the vibration. More or less included with this is bits vibrating against other bits, such as the rear side windows vibrating against their track - you have to put some padding in between the two bits to stop them touching.
2. (second easiest) Noise bouncing round inside the vehicle. Reduced by increasing the amount of sound absorbing padding inside, to reduce the reflection of sound. For example, rubber matting absorbs more sound than bare metal, and carpet even more.
3. (most difficult) Sound proofing - prevention of the transmission of sound through the panels. Sound will not transmit well through the interfaces between layers with very different acoustic impedance. The most effective will be one (or more) layer(s) of elastic low density material (e.g. foam) separated by layers of dense, rigid material (e.g. lead). This is often approximated in commercial materials by loading foam with granules of lead. Apart from being expensive and often difficult to apply (so it stays on), this method suffers from the fact that even small gaps in the shield will transmit a surprising proportion of the noise.
Just spraying foam on the noisy side of a sheet metal panel will provide some improvement from factor 1, and a little from factor 3, although not much, because the spray foam is usually too rigid to provide a really good impedance mismatch with the sheet metal, although the spray on material is very good for not leaving holes.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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