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Thread: Spray foam soundproofing

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Melbourn(ish)
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    ID be going the fibre glass matting as the deadners (except the black tar like spary on stuff that goes funny and goopy with oil exposure) tend to trap moisture behind them...

    Applied correctly they're not to bad but thats the rub... the area needs to be spotlessly preped before application.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    2780
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    I had a go round with the sound deadening stuff on the last beastie. Wonderful stuff, about an inch thick of felt topped with heavy rubber and foil.

    Weighed a great deal.

    I'm thinking of something that can go on the outside of the tcase hatch, so waterproof. I also want something I can get rid of without too much hassle if I don't like it.

    Cheers
    Simon.

  3. #13
    tombraider Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK View Post
    discowhite may have a bit more info on this....he used it on the 90.......reckons he can hear the missus now.....
    Dammit! Not going to use it in mine then!!!!


  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
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    On the SIII I used 10mm closed cell high density foam under the bonnet, on the engine side of the firewall (on al flat surfaces where I could glue it) and I used the same same material with a vinyl laminated onto it (as a floor mat) on the footwells. I made a similar cover for the middle section of the firewall that clipped in with a couple of elastic tarp clips. I also laid the same foam on the back floor with a heavy rubber mat on top of it. The cieling and walls were covered in marine carpet and the the tansmission tunnel & seat box also have 10mm closed cell foam underneath and 2mm cloth back foam inside the cab.

    I could talk to my passanger at 110kph. Previous to this speeds over 90kph were "thinking time" not "talking time".

    It took some years of expreimenting with various materials to get to this solution. Progress was limited to what I could buy cheap. If $$$ aren't an issue, you may be able to get something right away.

    Have you had a look at the acoustic mat sold in the UK which is a moulded floor / firewall / seatbox insulation for Defenders & Series Land Rovers that uses the same kind of materials as used in earthmoving equipment. According to their info a significant amount of noise reduction comes from insulating the seat box.

    Soryy to ramble.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Rydalmere, Sydney
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    I've spent $500 plus to hear the wife!!!

    Firstly i will comment that lead is not common for sound deadning these days due to health concerns. It has largely been replaced by Barium loaded vinyl products. Infact the covering of the seatbox in defenders is barium loaded vinyl albeit a very thin version. they are rated by transmission and absorbtion of sound at various frequencies and generally the heavier the better

    I have replaced the TXcase in the defender 130 with 1.2Q version-good, one less whine but can now hear the rear diff. I also installed the Dieselgas system for more power.

    Went to a good aussie company in Girraween -Sydney Pyrotek / sound guard. The guy said buy a differnt car! But they do the work on same LRs for the Army.

    I put the self adhesive tar/felt pads every where, in doors, floor, hump, seat boxes. Adds weight to shift the resonant frequency down so you do not hear it. 1Kg / msq

    I bought 2 x 4m x1.3m (7Kg / msq) rolls of silent tread designed to go under wooden floors in units etc and put oit under the floor mats front and rear, I put it up behind AC and recovered the front seat box under cubby box, removable panels under seats. Inside rear seatbox. Pulled rear seats out and put it all across the back of the 130s cab.

    Then I replaced all floormats front and rear.

    In the back seat floor I added a ribbed 5mm thick rubber and put aluminium trims at the door sills to hold it all down.

    I filled all the seat boxes with stuff to stop them drumming. Passengers- 2 batteries, drivers- Tools, Rear - recovery gear and spare parts.

    Next I want to put a heavy ute mat in the rear tub.

    I have used a Sound meter along the way and it has dropped each stage.

    Probably some 50Kg of products but i can criuse at 110Kph and talk to the wife and the kids can hear the tape player in the back. The gears change makes hill starts tougher but well worth it as 120 is still comfortable and i have had it to 140 odd

    Spent $500 on sound products and $1300 for TX gears and $4600 on the gas system. Is a much nicer truck to drive both in town and on the open road.

    Worth every cent to keep the wife happy.

    zwitter

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Mandurah. W.A.
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    I used 'Formshield' from Clark Rubber to reduce heat and noise in the County. Not expensive either and easy to use.

    Maggsie

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sydney
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    geez zwitter, you didn't muck around!

    If that didn't / doesn't work I don't think anything would!

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