Thread: Clutch master cylinder

Originally Posted by abaddonxi

Master cylinder has been weeping onto the floor for the past few days.

So, time for a new one.

Off to Karcraft. Can't say enough good things about them. under fifty bucks for a new master cylinder. No OE - $114, but made in some factory in Italy that only does these things, and does 'em for Ferraris too; fine by me.

Tells me I could go the trailer one, but would have to swap the plunger thingy from old cylinder and only a couple of bucks cheaper.

Looked into stainless sleeving while I'm at it the guy is in Wollongong 02 4336 4911. Didn't bother going through with it after mechanic said no smoother on the pedal and not worth the cost when new one's are so cheap.

Interesting, the invoice has the price I paid, and list price of $205 Reckon that's what the mechanic would have charged me?

I've got a new jar or fluid, and an old one that's been sitting in the seat box for a while. The old one looks like it's got an expiry date of 2005. Question is: Is this stuff no good, even in sealed container? And, should I use it to flush he system out. Or, what should I use to flush.

Any tips on changing cylinder? Karcraft guy showed me how to pre-prime cylinder.

tia

Cheers,
Simon.

Its a bit fiddly but its easy to swap... $200 to swap it and bleed it, hrm maybe if you were paying time and parts in one shot...

the clutch master can be had from most trailer shops and all you usually need to swap is the plunger pin occasionally (series parts here) ive been able to take in the old one complete and get the identical one (down to the plunger pin) for <$70 working by my self installation and bleeding is about an hour and a halfs work.

(plunger pin aka drive rod, the one that the non foot end of the pedal pushes to make the piston in the cylinder move)

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Its a bit fiddly but its easy to swap... $200 to swap it and bleed it, hrm maybe if you were paying time and parts in one shot...

the clutch master can be had from most trailer shops and all you usually need to swap is the plunger pin occasionally (series parts here) ive been able to take in the old one complete and get the identical one (down to the plunger pin) for <$70 working by my self installation and bleeding is about an hour and a halfs work.

(plunger pin aka drive rod, the one that the non foot end of the pedal pushes to make the piston in the cylinder move)

Nah, the $200 was what Karcraft included on their invoice as the RRP. I've noticed it on all of their invoices and wondered if it is the recommended mark up for mechanics.

Cheers
Simon.

Looked into stainless sleeving while I'm at it the guy is in Wollongong 02 4336 4911. Didn't bother going through with it after mechanic said no smoother on the pedal and not worth the cost when new one's are so cheap.

The obvious advantage of SS sleeving is to make the bore corrosion free, while still allowing the seals to be replaced over time, rather than chuck it out in the skip.

All of the seals on my S2A are SS sleeved & the Discovery will be done if & when, they go.

mine failed while i was crossing the simpson desert, good thing i had a kit onboard and rebuilt it at mt dare

i wasted a good thirty minutes trying to work out a way of removing the master cylinder, than i dawned on me the the whole peddel assembly needed to be removed

30min is a long time when you have 3 million flies trying to help, 1/2 dozen kids playing cricket just 10 metres away, leaning over a hot motor and tounging for a beer

Originally Posted by abaddonxi

..........
I've got a new jar or fluid, and an old one that's been sitting in the seat box for a while. The old one looks like it's got an expiry date of 2005. Question is: Is this stuff no good, even in sealed container? And, should I use it to flush he system out. Or, what should I use to flush.

Any tips on changing cylinder? Karcraft guy showed me how to pre-prime cylinder.

tia

Cheers,
Simon.

See my article in the AULRO magazine a couple of issues back - somewhere on this site, but can't see it at the moment.

The clutch is much less demanding on fluid than are the brakes - no heat worth talking about, so the older fluid should be OK. Flush the system out when bleeding with new fluid or the older fluid if from a sealed container. Be scrupulous about cleanliness when dealing with any hydraulic system, in particular do not allow the slightest trace of any mineral oil to contaminate it. This means washing your hands and tools between pulling it apart and reassembling it, and degrease all the bits you will be handling while reassembling. Exposed pipe ends should be covered with clean rags tied on, and leave the plug in the new cylinder outlet until you are ready to attach the pipe. Put down an old towel or similar to catch any spilled fluid, and wash off any spills as soon as possible - that stuff takes paint off.

John

Thanks John,

Exactly what I needed.

Magazine article here.

Cheers
Simon.

Well that's done. Only a couple of trips out to the shop - first up for another 1/2" spanner. Second for a set of lock nut for the shaft/plunger thing.

When I pulled the old master cylinder out it had Made in Australia in large letters, so I'm guessing not original. Whatever, old lock nuts didn't fit the new shaft. Bugger.

I'm guess that with clever work with the circlip pliers you could disengage the shaft and replace the master cylinder in situ.

Old circlip was floating around in the boot and the whole thing had turned to alu powder and hydro fluid sludge.

Now the clutch is smooth, and light, and no sticking. Some might remember me moaning about the clutch when I bought the truck almost two years ago; reckon I might have finally fixed it.

Ha Ha.

Cheers,
Simon.

Originally Posted by abaddonxi

I'm guess that with clever work with the circlip pliers you could disengage the shaft and replace the master cylinder in situ.

.

has anybody had a good crack at doing it in situ, i gave up pretty wuick

good to see you backon the road