Thread: Rangy diffs for the lightweight?

So theoretically I can pull the diffs of an early rangy and slot them into my housings for an improvment in on the road gearing. Downside is lack of oil filler unless I source early diffs. Is it realy as simple as that, are the rangy noses the same length as series 3 noses?

Originally Posted by Mick-Kelly

So theoretically I can pull the diffs of an early rangy and slot them into my housings for an improvment in on the road gearing. Downside is lack of oil filler unless I source early diffs. Is it realy as simple as that, are the rangy noses the same length as series 3 noses?

So far as Ive been able to work out yes, but if they arent I had my propshafts modded for kermit from spicer shafts in townsville for the princely sum of $100 for both. (I was out because I fitted the sailsbury to the back and did a lift)

If it doesnt have the filler in the housing dont fret, while the diffs out its not a big job to drill a 10mm hole on the housing at the right height and braze a nut onto it that will let you have a normal filler/check hole.

Since im contemplating changing my front housing to the laminated one I have If you like when I pull it down I'll start out by doing it the shortcut way and do the pics up for you as a howto.

but thats about 2 months away...

The rear is just a case of parking on a tarp with a heap of kitty litter piled up against the side of the wheels, chocking the fronts, draining the diff, undoing then removing the drive hubs, extracting the axle about 6 inches (both sides of course) drop the propshaft from the diff, unbolt diff carrier then with the changeover diff gooped and/or gasketed reversing the above.

Although I highly recomend adding new locknuts and locktite 242 to all those things youve undone in that process. Ditto for gaskets unless you like gasket goops.

If youve got the chance before you install your second hand diffs stand it vertically, liberally apply 80/90 to the bearings and the crown wheel hook up an electric drill to a socket and use that to spin the flange making sure that the bearings run quietly and that there is no binding of the pinion. Fill the carrier with oil while it balances on the flange to make sure the seal is good and rotate the drive splines in the side gears to check them for freeness.

Originally Posted by Mick-Kelly

So theoretically I can pull the diffs of an early rangy and slot them into my housings for an improvment in on the road gearing. Downside is lack of oil filler unless I source early diffs. Is it realy as simple as that, are the rangy noses the same length as series 3 noses?

Yeah it is . take them out of a rangie and put them straight into the lightwieght
As to filling with oil. Then no big drama just jack up one side and put the correct amout down the tube. Job done

that is what we did with my brothers lightweight.

Everyone is telling you porky's, SOME not all Rangie centres had a filler plu in the carrier, not the housing, others vice versa, you CAN get them to suit your seriea and will fit

Now thats a machine, thanks for the info Blacknight it was definately thorough just the way i like it. It seems like a worthwhile project then. I figure while shes in parts is as good a time as any.

Originally Posted by Mick-Kelly

Now thats a machine, .

yeah and it had a 11A 3.5 rover V8 in with a staight though exhaust
Hence why it had range rover diffs

I thought the 4cyl had issues pulling the higher range diffs!

G'day All

That they do Mr Apocalypse the feeling of being dragged off at the lights by a Fiat 500 whilst driving a 3.54 geared Landy is

But the look on the face of Toyo and Miss-ang drivers at 110k is
but with unboosted 10 inch drums stopping is

cheers