Oil in Ecu box ???

your not one of my exxes masquerading as a Landy nut trying to put me into a world full of hurt(I didnt know she was your sister) are you??
If not I'd be prepared to give it a go, still got to trace the loom back to see how far it has gone, if it hasnt reached the main loom, I'll Pm you.

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Originally Posted by crump

your not one of my exxes masquerading as a Landy nut trying to put me into a world full of hurt(I didnt know she was your sister) are you??
If not I'd be prepared to give it a go, still got to trace the loom back to see how far it has gone, if it hasnt reached the main loom, I'll Pm you.

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Crump, I may be a POM, but I do have taste......................

PM me with the contact detail, and I'll send the kit up, and when you are ready to fit it - call me and I can talk you through it.

wellll since im coming up that way...

assuming i get whereis to load and can work out where in the hell Eidsvold QLD is and wow 250km + thats outa the way a bit but my offer will stand... (but the timing will be much later)

1, I'll install ladas's kit for you.. (if you cant wait its DIY (1/5) if you know howto solder)
2, If you make a balls up of it yourself I'll have a crack at doing my mod which is the same yet different
3. If it all goes terribly wrong your no worse off I'll help out putting the new harness in for ya.. (just for playing gunie pig I'll supply some beer and a hot plate if you want to singe some meat.)

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Originally Posted by garrycol

Is it that the oil has minute carbon particles because of engine combustion in it that make used engine oil conductive and this provides random shorts in the ECU - this is the only thing I can think of.
Garry

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BANG!!!

Nailed it first go.

100% pure refined oil is an insulator its used in transformers up to metric truckloads of KVA's as coolant.

however contaminate it.... different story...

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Originally Posted by ladas

I just carried out a very basic 'test'

I poured a little Magnatec engine oil in a container, and put the negative clamp of the battery charger in one end.

I connected the poss clamp to my multi-meter poss probe, and then popped the negative probe into the oil away from the submersed clamp.

The meter read 0.20 volts.

The voltage from the battery charger is 11.90v

So the 0.20 v relates to 1.68%

Now at the moment I don't know if it's a sliding scale or a relative curve (ie as the volts in increase the volts out via the oil would increase by the same proportion or not - but I'll assume so, I'll do another test later with 24v in)

The injectors on a TD5 work on 85 volts - so 2% = 1.7 volts

1.7 volts would certainly be enough to upset most electronics in the box.

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(i'll work out the multi thread thing propelry one day honest guys)

add this to the kettle...

from an 85v rail 2% is 1.7v if its heading to an earth over the same distance as your test rig...

how far apart do you reckon that the connection spacing is in the ECU?

not all railes in the ECU are 12v I wouldnt mind betting that some are also 5v (signal interupt for a crank angle sensor for example) if that the case thats definately enough to kill electronics if its put on in the wrong way (floating voltages can in some circumstances add together relative to earth

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

wellll since im coming up that way...

assuming i get whereis to load and can work out where in the hell Eidsvold QLD is and wow 250km + thats outa the way a bit but my offer will stand... (but the timing will be much later)

1, I'll install ladas's kit for you.. (if you cant wait its DIY (1/5) if you know howto solder)
2, If you make a balls up of it yourself I'll have a crack at doing my mod which is the same yet different
3. If it all goes terribly wrong your no worse off I'll help out putting the new harness in for ya.. (just for playing gunie pig I'll supply some beer and a hot plate if you want to singe some meat.)

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just to clear this in my head, if I end up with a plate of spaghetti, I'll only need a new injector harness, which I should probably have as a spare anyway, I'll see how I go, and if it all goes to hell, I'll happily take you up on your offer.:D

Hey Dave if this all works mate ill go up for a go aswell mate plus iam a bit closer than Eidsvold :D and ill put the BBQ on, ive checked my plug at the head and there is nothing there yet. How about your Extreme Dave have you had this problem yet.

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Originally Posted by crump

just to clear this in my head, if I end up with a plate of spaghetti, I'll only need a new injector harness, which I should probably have as a spare anyway, where do I get one and how much?? I'll see how I go, and if it all goes to hell, I'll happily take you up on your offer.:D

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Crump, I don't think you would need a new harness - even if the worse thing from hell happened.

Wire strippers
Silver Solder
Soldering Iron
Shrink Sleveing
Hair dryer (for shrinking the shrink sleveing)
1 slab of your favourite.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ladas

Crump, I don't think you would need a new harness - even if the worse thing from hell happened.

Wire strippers
Silver Solder
Soldering Iron
Shrink Sleveing
Hair dryer (for shrinking the shrink sleveing)
1 slab of your favourite.

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ok, I've got all that, except the beer(having a liver break), cant be any worse than wiring up roof spotlights.;)

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Originally Posted by justinc

Adrian, I can't help but suggest this could be the cause of your jerky and hesitant throttle??
As said, a 160$ AMR6103 injector loom , a rocker cover gasket and about 30 minutes labour will stop any more oil, but you'll need to get some CO contact cleaner or brake cleaner to flush the main harness. Clean the pins at the injector loom connection and the ECU plugs first, drive around for a while and clean again. then you'll probably have to do it several times more over the next months, but is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the loom.

JC

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tell me about it:o