The box of tricks, for what it's worth
this is the mods I done to the injector harness the plug that goes into the injector I pulled apart then opened it upcar repairs 016.jpg
filled it with gasket silicone and closed it up again,smeared some on the outside and put a small bead around the inside of the black part before putting it back togethercar repairs 019.jpg
Finally the main plug there are some holes on top of the plug what I did was stick the nozzle of the sealant tube in where the wires go and forced sealer in till it came out of the holes on top of the plugcar repairs 017.jpgdid this 9 months ago so far so good also no longer get the injector fault codes coming up
disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.
In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message
The box of tricks, for what it's worth
Last edited by ladas; 22nd October 2008 at 09:44 PM.
Interesting gizmo!
You may want to secure the internal wires to prevent vibration. As they appear to be single core wire they will fatigue after too much vibration.
Also may want to consider bringing the external wires further inside the box and securing with a gland or something so they are not pulling on the terminals. Crimp on bootlace ferrules are good putting on the wires and screwing into the terminal blocks
Link to ferrules-
http://www.rsaustralia.com/cgi-bin/b...auie&Nr=avl:au
2012 110 Defender
Thanks for the input.
Yes they are single core, ceramic wires, but they are under tension (ie pulled tight) so there will/should be nill/minimal vibration.
I had planned on silver soldering the 'cut n stripped' bare end of the loom before they are screwed into the terminals.
I have always found that any crimp on terminals to be the weak link, solder on pin terminals would, im my veiw be a better option - but soldered wire ends will also sufice.
There should not be anything 'pulling' on the terminals from the external wires.
I guess a few months of road work will tell, and if Crump can fit the box and report back - we will all know.
Hi All
I have done something similar to stevo using heatsrink and gasket silicon it seems to be working at present only time will tell the pic of what I have done is at http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.p...o/3464/cat/691
Regards
Doug
So when water gets into the box and shorts across the terminals/wires what happens then?
This idea isnt going to last offroad.
Vibration is going to kill it, water is going to kill it...
Theres a neater solution, I just need to find the damn connector I need. Both sealed from outside and inside...
That will fix it.
Appreciate the comments.
The 'box' will sit much higher in a Defender than the ecu, if water get's in that then you are rooted anyway.
Can't see vibration being an issue if it's mounted sympathetically.
You may be spot on, but from what I can see - I don't think so, I guess time and trials will tell.
Just had a loooong talk to someone in the know.
Right way...
car repairs 019.jpg
Wrong Way... is to use that box of tricks, its a good try but its really not going to help much, it will just fill with oil, but in no way solve the issue.
His sugestion is, if you wish to use the box of tricks, is fill it with Silicon...
Solution from a LR expert with factory / design heritage in LR ... get a new harness, fill the barstard with silicon, and install.
155$ solution ... the rest will just prolong the problem!
$155 is like two fuel tanks of diesel and the problem is solved!
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