Thread: Oil in Ecu box ???

It Aint the start of oil getting in...

The oil is in! And now its out too.....

Sorry... Your up for new Head Loom and a flush of the engine/body loom...

LandyAndy will no doubt speak up soon.

welcome to my world. talk to landy andy and see the below thread.

Hi Wotho
Since the site problems its hard to search.
Here is one reference,but not the original post.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=33385
I will delve a little deeper and get back

G'day Defender=1st

It would worth checking out the thread $$$$ what a price by Drut, about 5 threads away from this one on this page.

Adrian, I can't help but suggest this could be the cause of your jerky and hesitant throttle??
As said, a 160$ AMR6103 injector loom , a rocker cover gasket and about 30 minutes labour will stop any more oil, but you'll need to get some CO contact cleaner or brake cleaner to flush the main harness. Clean the pins at the injector loom connection and the ECU plugs first, drive around for a while and clean again. then you'll probably have to do it several times more over the next months, but is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the loom.

JC

Adraian,
As said have a look at related posts. There are a few of us who have been through this and the repair is not that dear or complicated. There are post by myself, LandyAndy and a few others. Despite what is being said it all can be cleaned up, but I would suggest buying an injector loom about $130 from Karcraft and flushing the engine harness as the engine harness is ridicuously priced. This would explain your surging throttle and will eventually lead to no power.
Maybe we could get a sticky and post all the related posts to this subject and the oil pump bolt issue as they are reccuring often.
On of the Mods please.

Copy of post to Drut
Drut as said, the injector harness is mainly under the rocker cover and comes out through a hole at the front of the head where it connects via a cup/barrel connector to the main engine harnes. The reason oil gets in is the o rings in the head wear and capillary action feeds oil along the wires into the cup and as the bottom half of the cup is the female plug, oil easily flows along the outside and inside of the wiring to the ecu. Unplug the ecu under your seat and put the end in a plasti bag or something to catch residue. Unplug the harness at the barrel connector and prop in position. Use brake cleaner, metho or a non plastic damaging contact cleaner (some contact cleaners will melt plastic, I know as have done it). Over a period of about 8 hrs or so keep adding more. Give it a bit to clear right out remove the bag and residue. Clean up residue with a cloth and cotton buds. Replace injector harness while all this is going on, clean up spare and get new o rings and keep as a backup. Over the next couple of days check the ecu connector at the ecu and clean up any residual mess that may occur, remnants of oil and cleaner. Should be it.
Replacing the whole engine harness is a fairly big task and should only be a last reort. Sounds like the mechanic who advised you has not a clue or wants some extra work.
Also make sure if you have a 99-2002 model you check the oil pump bolt as well as this can cost an engine. Just do a search on this site, there is plenty of info on it.

oh ok thanks everyone

Originally Posted by CraigE

Maybe we could get a sticky and post all the related posts to this subject and the oil pump bolt issue as they are reccuring often.
On of the Mods please.

There is a whole forum just for these types of posts

its called

COMMON THREADS

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/forumdisplay.php?f=116

funnily enough--

Sorry for what is maybe a silly question but why is oil in the loom and then in the ECU actually a problem other than making an oily mess around the ECU.

I accept that some people have experienced problems with the running of their engines but I do not quite understand how the oil impacts the operation of the ECU - oil is generally electrically inert so it should not have any impact on the operation of the ECU (there are no moving parts). Indeed the whole ECU should in theory even continue to work if totally submerged in oil.

Is it that the oil has minute carbon particles because of engine combustion in it that make used engine oil conductive and this provides random shorts in the ECU - this is the only thing I can think of.

So can someone explain other than the mess why it is an issue.

Thanks

Garry