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I have had similar problems with my RR and a Disco i owned a few years ago. Turned out to be a wiring issue - clean all the earths first and then check for consistent 12 V at the pump. Most of the mising / idling / rough running problems I have had have been caused by faulty wiring or ignition. Worth a try??
Cheers
Brent
The D1 has a link lead between the fuel pump & the main harness. It's not unknown to have this connection overheat & burn terminals.Quote:
Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
Normally the replacement fuel pump doesn't work either unlike your case so I doubt this is your problem. You never know though.
I will put my 2 bobs worth in and say check componants before you remove them, saves you a LOT af money.
Have you got a multi meter?
Lift the rear carpet, take the cover off over the tank and probe the wires for the fuel pump.
You should have more than 12v (between 12v and about 13.2/3v) constant and if not the fuel pump will only work intermittantly when pressure is low and it can start with very little load.
Once running it should be fine for a while until it gets a bit warm under pressure and needs a little momre power and will then cut out.
Most fuel lecky fuel pumps are like this.
If you are not getting north of 12v and it is actually south of the mark then start checking the positive feed but if you are constantly north of 12v then run a new earth or check the one you have properly with the continuity tester/or ohmeter.
Still if you find nothing wrong wire the pump direct and see if it kicks and if not pull it and see if it's blocked, if not blocked the replace the pump again.
Also check all your filters are clean and or new as a blocked filter can load up a pump and it will shut off.
Question, was the pump noisy before it quit?
Was there any other indication the air flow meter or throttle body I can't remember was faulty e.g. poor acceleration, heavy on juice, blowing black smoke?
Has it ever back fired?
I would have to read up on testing the ign module but from memory they just quit and thats it except for V8 commodores where they can come in and out for a while, gradually getting worse.
Failing all this, patch it up, sell it to some one you dont like and buy one with a 300Tdi in it.
Do the timing belt and forget about it for 60000km other than giving it a drink of clean RimX every 10k or so with a filter.
Have fun and if all else fails don't bring it to me as I no longer work on anything automotive that I dont own.
This is why every few months my fuel tank gets a cup of metho dropped into it. Makes a brine of any water & gets rid of it through the normal combustion process.Quote:
Whilst its probably unlikely you've go the same deal, perhaps the bottom of your tank is full of water or other crud like DRanged suggested?
Maybe the regular addition of Mory's Upper Cylinder Lubricant helps lubricate the pump as well.
Air Flow meters
This crowd do repairs etc but I E-mailed them twice for something when I was having the V8i idle problem I never got the courtesy of a reply. Worth a shot I suppose. You may have better luck.;)
http://www.injectronics.com.au/Air%2...s%20Meters.asp
The most wear prone item in an injection system is the Throttle Position Sensor as it is like a volume control ie a needle scraping across a carbon track.
Over time they can get a gap, usually just off idle.
This causes a "tip in" miss and can sometimes have the car just stop while cruising along.
You can test it by putting a multimeter on the output and then just moving it slowly through it's range. Any deviation from a smooth increase or decrease of resistance or voltage means it's bad.
Regards Philip A