We have a Range Rover in the workshop that has been retrofitted with a 3.9 EFI V8 out of a '96 Discovery.
The conversion was carried out elsewhere, we have been called in to try to sort out the mess.
I have thus far replaced the failed air flow meter and the spark plugs (badly fouled).
The ignition was wired through a ballast resistor (now bypassed) and I don't know the history of the ignition coil. I am assuming it is the old ballast type for use with points.
Does anyone know of a part number for a Bosch replacement coil? My local suppliers have no listing for Land Rover.
The problem I am facing is that the engine doesn't want to idle. To get it started the ignition has to be advanced (12 degrees or more) and if I retard it the engine stalls. The engine seems to rev cleanly, just won't idle. I haven't yet had a close look to check if the harmonic balancer has spun, giving incorrect timing marks.
Cheers,
Jon
I thought any 12v coil would do, but I seem to remember from my past (trade school perhaps) that the incorrect coil can lead to early ignition module failure (wrong resistances, etc).
Yes it is a very specific Bosch coil which has an unusual resistance etc.
Bosch sold all their stock to an auto electrician in Melbourne I think.
Call Bob Tait on (03) 9541-5559 at Bosch technical assistance and he will give you the info.
Regards Philip A
Thanks Philip, I tried that number, but too late. Everyone has gone home for the weekend. I will try them again on Monday. In the meantime I fitted a new 12v coil for electronic ignition (Bosch) with no change to how it runs.
Sorry for the bum steer Jon.
That's the first I've heard of the LR coil having a specific resistance value.
Maybe I shouldn't have run one in my Morris Minor for the last 10 years.
Scott
I have run a Bosch electronic coil (the square ones) on my 96 EFI Disco for the last 4 years without any drama.
I recently changed my Bosch GT40R (meant for Ballast resistor) to a GT40 (for use without resistor), also removing ballast resistance wire and replacing it with 4mm wire (ran from the electric fuel pump wire).
Bosch GT40s are around $35-40. Make sure you ask for a GT40, not a GT40R.
It runs very nicely now, starts easier and has a bit more low down torque.
This is on a Rangie with a Pirahna electronic ignition.
Now I am not a tech but I know from bitter experience.
A Pirahna or other replacement transistorised ignitions must have a points type coil , as this type of coil is current limiting. They are only switches which take the place of the points
If you use an electronic coil you will blow up the transistors in about 10 seconds. Ask me how I know.
A factory high energy ignition limits the current going to the coil, and the coils are quite different, and each coil is designed to go with a particular ignition. I understand that the current draw cannot be too high for the amplifier.
I was told that you could NOT use a Bosch 727 with the Dizzy amplifier, and most shops eg Graeme Cooper will not do it. But the above is guy who has done it without problems. I run a Bosch 727, but I have a Bosch remote amplifier running through the Unichip. The Unichip will not run with a factory amplifier. ( or that is what I am told!!)
Regards Philip A
Gday jon
Sounds like your havin fun mate will it idle at the 12 deg or more or dose it die ..
Have you driven it at 12 deg or more to see if it pings or runs fine
Has the engin harness and all the bits been hooked up proper and all vacume lines hooked up ..
Harmonic balancer could have spun on its rubber ring or you may have a vac leak or one of the EFI components is having a rest ..
Cheers
Chris
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