Great solution Crump!
So does the vinegar/water mix work on steel as well? ie steel door frame
If you use Penetrol, then you don't need primer?
And if I'd known all this a few years ago, how good would that have been?
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Great solution Crump!
So does the vinegar/water mix work on steel as well? ie steel door frame
If you use Penetrol, then you don't need primer?
And if I'd known all this a few years ago, how good would that have been?
is this the one Crump?
http://www.floodaustralia.net/brochu...penetrolal.pdf
or this one:
http://www.floodaustralia.net/brochu...16penetrol.pdf
??
any thoughts on using hippo liner on/in the door as corrosion protection?
dont get too excited, I'm usually wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98-110
the way I understand the whole aluminium corrosion thing is thus; and I'm referring to boat hulls.
dropped sinker in cleat in hull causes abrasion to the Al surface, add salt water and you have a battery.Electrolysis occurs(otherwise your boat would have unsightly facial hair and a shocking bikini line) and that starts the Al cancer.Remove the sinker and the saltwater and the reaction keeps occurring due to exposure to oxygen, the Al feeds on itself once it starts. If you simply seal that off, for some ungodly reason it continues like some flesh eating bug. Acetic acid (vinegar) stops the reaction and neutralises whatever chemical reaction is occuring. Penetrol seals the surface(apparently for up to 10 years) and the problem is solved.My theory would be to find out all the places your Landy is likely to suffer this event and spray with vinegar then paint on the Penetrol before anything occurs and theoretically it cant happen. but Im sure one of the hundreds of metalurgists that visit this site can disprove me. There endeth the lesson.
the bottom link wont open, but the top one is the stuff.The one I have isnt aluminium specific, I paint pine fishtank stands with it to waterproof them.Quote:
Originally Posted by EchiDna
Have you got one of those American disctionarys? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by ladas
Yes I have an Amerrican, dictionary, but in those they spell it - Oxidization, and I do not like the substitution of z for s. So I just use my engineering and chemical dictionary.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon
Ah Ha - You spotted my deliberate mistake...:blush:
Oxidation of alum seems to occur faster when adjacent steel is corroding - I believe this is one reason why you dont see it nearly as much on Series Rovers as most steel body parts in contact with alloy were galvanised.
I'd advise against stainless bolts as they are weaker and more expensive They can also promote rapid galvanic corrosion of adjacent aluminum and galvanised steel, depending on the type of alloy and the grade of stainless.
High tensile Cad plated, zinc plated or galvanised bolts are the go with a smear of antisieze on the threads.
I would have a look at Permanent Painted Coatings products, they were originally developed for marine application, but have been taken to by the car restoration folk, they have a product for just about everything you can think of.
I am using their paints in my resto of my landy.
see : http://www.ppc.au.com/