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Hi Tony
I have a "sheep drench gun" I got ages ago to suck the brake fluid thru the lines,never tried it but the idea was to fit the suction hose to the nipple and pump the fluid out.
I got it to do the brakes on my series landy,but managed to change the pads without changing the fluids,just didnt get around to flushing it out.
I wasnt confident to tackle the disco and was going to get the local mechanic to do it.
Thanks once again,Im drinking a pint for you:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:
Andrew
the brake bleeder i mentioned earlier is designed for this job..........
to suck out fluid from the bleed nipples....making it a one man job......
what i have found is that on some cars it creates a vacuum withing the system which gets trapped in there when you close the nipple
whilst the thing is still sucking......
this gives a soft or spongy pedal......which is quickly remedied by simply gravity bleeding and allowing the trapped air out.......
i just skip that step and go straight to gravity bleeding.......so......
i wouldnt bother trying to suck the fluid out from the nipples.....
just suck out the fluid from the reservoir.....then fill with fresh fluid and commence to gravity bleed the brakes.......
Good stuff 'zook,
The important thing to add here also is that D2's don't have adjustability of wheel bearings, they are a sealed hub. If there is ever any movement in them, it requires replacement immediately. Also, in the D2 it will usually set off an ABS fault due to the excessive play. In the Td5 fenders, there is also no user preload adjustment, as LR in their infinite wisdom have introduced a presized spacer between the inner wheel bearing races, and a single peenable locking nut. This is supposedly idiot proof, but I feel why change something that worked well? If your wheel bearings were serviced and adjusted by someone who knows what they are doing, there shouldn't be a preload problem. So, if the Td5 equipped Defenders have any wheel bearing end float, then there is a problem that needs rectification immediately, as the only reason the play appears is due to bearing fialure or the nut coming loose, either of which is undesirable.
Don't forget to mention the second worse job on a Defender, After removing the cooling system on a Td5, it is the primary park brake cable adjustment. If you've done one you'll know what I meen. I have shortish arms, and find it impossible to do without removing the rear tailshaft first, so I can get up in there!!
And it's good to hear people changing brake fluid regularly, especially ABS systems. It really is no different to non ABS except big hassles arise if you let the modulator valve block run out of fluid...I change brake fluids on a 20,000km basis, as it is easy and relatively cheap to do.
Also, The swivel housings need to be converted to oil and changed every service, Again, simple to do and cheap, but prolongs swivel chrome life, CV life and swivel bearings and in the case of ABS fenders, upper bushes and thrust bearings. Any water in there will make quick work of your wheel bearings also.
I think Steve(Crump) 's idea of a maintenance section is excellent, all in one place/thread. I'll be in that.
Oh, and after the hijack on cooling system air locks, I can add a hint here on bleeding, Landy Andy is correct on all accounts. A good way to flush these sometimes is to remove the bleeder in the top hose, run a medium to slow hose in the expansion tank and run the vehicle until the water coming out of the bleeder is clear. Also, run vehicle to operating temp and allow to cool a bit, then repeat. This will ensure the thermostat has opened and circulated the old coolant allowing it to be flushed out.
I even taste the coolant ( Just a little!!) to make sure all of it is out, as it looks clear but nay still have a fair bit in there.
Who's going to be the thread starter then?????
JC
how many nips do you get in 13.5 litres......?
Ah, Please explain????Quote:
Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
So you work in a bar?
Do I need to swill 13.5litres to find out??
Can I choose the liquid????
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
JC
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
need i explain further......?
Ha! I'd forgotten I said that!! Kiddies, don't try this at home, Glycol based coolants can be fatal if ingested.....
NOW I get the joke, Thanks Tony....
JC
bugger again
should have trolled around the otehr day and found this,
bled mine the other day, the old fashioned way, pump release etc
never heard of gravity bleeding.
the easisest way to get the older brake fluid out of the master cylinder is to use a 50ml syringe, is quick and easy,
john
so do you just suck out the bulk of it from the master cylinder and then top up with new stuff and then bleed as per Zook.
I just flushed my rad on the weekend and according to the instruction for a complete flush/refill it was supposed to take 13ltrs, but even with the bleed screw out it only took 7ltrs, i lifted the tank and did excactly what the manual said.
While filling clear water was coming from the bleed hole on the top hose, so i waited till red fluid came out then put another litre through till it was the same red as i was putting in the tank and then stopped, all up just over 7ltrs.
I check the level every morning and afternoon and so far all is good, i've even opened the bleed screw but no air just red coolent.
Should i be worried:(
Baz.