Good Ideaas said before capilary atraction is what causes the oil. But capilary attraction works on heat. surly its hotter in the engine bay compared to the ECU? corect me if i'm wrong.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Good Ideaas said before capilary atraction is what causes the oil. But capilary attraction works on heat. surly its hotter in the engine bay compared to the ECU? corect me if i'm wrong.
wrong. capilary action is caused by the action of the miniscus of a liquid and its proximity to a surface. (and im talking down to the level of individual fibers in a material or the molecular level here) But heat is an influenceing factor when tied in with things like liquid density and porosity of the material.
if you think along the lines of gravity for water atracting itself to something your on the right kind of track if you want it in laymens terms.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Ok Dave thanks ill pass that info onto Steve, this sort of thing is rite up his ally, he did say what he did for a living but yeah something with a long name.
Good to see you back Dave how did the bushmaster course go, ill organise to get the timing light & meter back to you mate as soon as i can
my fender has plenty of oil in the harness yet no symptoms, could just be a matter of time though. anyway has anyone tried making a small breakout loom, before installing it completely seal the loom not with sealant or wax but with something the oil isn't going to get through, like araldite or some sort of glue that sticks to the wires on a molecular level so the oil can't travel any farther?? also does anyone know if the oil will jump across the pins on a breakout loom? could this work? surely there must be a simple answer to this nightmare.
Cheers from the Desert
Rexy
2000 130 TD5
Oil in the Harness, suspension knock, transmission clunk, engine oil leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, centrifugal oil filter stripped bolts, a/c leaks, door leaks, wouldn't trade it for the world
!I just got off the phone to MR and they say the sealing up at the plug fixs it for good ? will have to see, she is booked in as well as front unibefore we do the trip to Camberra towning the van
Cheers from the Desert
Rexy
2000 130 TD5
Oil in the Harness, suspension knock, transmission clunk, engine oil leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, centrifugal oil filter stripped bolts, a/c leaks, door leaks, wouldn't trade it for the world
Has anyone thought of extending the ECU harness and mounting the ECU above head height ex in an overhead console.
Saw this in a Land Rover mag, not sure if extending the harness would alter any inputs or outputs from the ECU.
Any thoughts???
i remember seeing an extension cable available for plug and play somewhere for shifting the ecu
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had a look at mine on the weekend and found oil in both the plug coming out of the rocker cover and the red plug at the ECU. Sprayed both out with WD40 which improved throttle response, but didn't solve the acceleration hesitation (and no, I'm not just talking typical TD AH) completely.
Fortunately a new injector harness is only $120, and even though the ECU harness may be a problem as well, the $550 for that is cheaper than the $1K I was expecting - however, it seems some people have had success with just soaking/flushing this one with meths? Also, is the new 'upgraded' injector harness the complete solution or have people still had problems with these?
I'm assuming this oil is actually getting into the inside of each plastic-coated wire which is why it's not possible to resolve with a quick clean-up of plugs etc?
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