Cones or Clamps?

First of all, don't go looking for Les Richmond in Bayswater, as they are in Thomastown. :o


I gues it all comes down to one question, do you want big flex for show or to get you further up a track?

If for show, then allow springs to dislocate and remove your shocks altogether.:twisted:


If you want to get further up a track then this is what I would do:

1. Lengthen your shock mounts (Les Richmond have a good kit for this) because it is pointless putting in longer springs if the shocks are what is limiting the downtravel, but you cant put in longer shocks without modifying the shock mounts

2. Use nice long soft springs. If it's just a weekend tuff truck then soft springs are fine. If you also carry loads then use helper airbags in the rear.
Softer spring will be longer while still giving you the same lift and so will drop further.

3. Retain the springs

4. (more important than any of the above) Install lockers!;)

yes lockers are on the way and I am clamping the springs tonight. I want the impossible. A daily drive, long range tourer and track ability to put all the other non rover guys to shame (already does but need more:twisted: )

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First of all, don't go looking for Les Richmond in Bayswater, as they are in Thomastown.

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I wouldn't recommend looking at Les Richmond ANYWHERE unless you are prepared to spend. Nothing against Andrew or his advice (always done the right thing by me) but he has one hell of a candy shop. It would be very easy to get carried away there - the positive is that it's all good gear and you'd end up with a fine setup.

I do agree with that, the stuff is expensive but buying some of the kits (like the body lift etc) makes it a lot easier to get it engineered if you are going that way.

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Originally Posted by Diff

yes lockers are on the way and I am clamping the springs tonight. I want the impossible. A daily drive, long range tourer and track ability to put all the other non rover guys to shame (already does but need more:twisted: )

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Put long travel light springs in the rear, then fit a centrally mounted air bag for load carrying capacity (where the Range Rover boge leveller was fitted). Then you can have the best of both worlds. This is a plan for my Rangie.

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Originally Posted by Bush65

3. Generally the front won't articulate as much as the rear - termed unbalanced. Retained rear springs will help the front to articulate more. Whereas the extra droop at the rear with dislocated springs will reduce the articulation at the front, which will cause the body to lean over further (not good if it leans to the downhill side on cross slopes).

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This is a key thing that I have found. With the rear suspension on my ute set to dislocate the rear suspension didn't need to be lifted much at all before the spring unseated (not a lot of load on the rear). When the spring was retained, then the wheel could be lifted heaps and the front suspension would then start to flex also. If the rear is not retained, the front suspension won't be forced to flex.

In the pic, the IIa is at 100" wheelbase, rear coiled, front sprung over. Unretained the rear would pretty much sit on the jack, with the jack not far off it lowest setting. When I strapped the axle which will do less than retaining the suspension flexed as you see in the picture.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/07/110.jpg

Has anyone tried these at all??

http://www.x-eng.co.uk/Images/Album/...adExpanded.jpg

X-Spring from X-Eng (UK).

Judging by the mud on the vehicle in the pic and the clean spring, they must have special mud resistance too ;)

Noticed them in the latest edition of LRE.

If I remember isn't someone on this forum an X-Eng agent in Australia??

I tested the clamped springs on the weekend and they worked well. Without the clamp the spring would dislocate by about 100mm. The disc would hit the floor of the garage. With the clamps on the disc would still hit the floor so I will assume no travel was lossed and it would continue to drop with the added weight of the rim and tyre.

I took it back to the same track and made it up (on the 3rd approach) So I am very happy

I also noticed that without the clamp the tyres would rub the inside of the wheel well.

Thank you all for the voice of experience.