Help required re light force 170 spots

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Originally Posted by DRS

Original relay is 30 amp.

I will look for new relay tomorrow.

Do tyou think I should look for 40 amp?

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The 30 should do, but maybe with the time/fuse sizes it may have phased the relay and it/they get weak/tired and even burn internal connections together. The 30 may just be ratted

The wire sizing was done by the people you bought the lamps from - so one would hope that they are the right size.

You have checked that there are no shorts, no poor earth - poor earth connections are the main cause for auto electic faults, remove the earth for the lights - clean everything then tighten them down real tight, then pop a bit of vasaline over them.

Will do.
Nothing like a good weekend challange.

Thanks again guys

the new era copes just fine with my 170 lightforce(s) and i have heavy cable on them....

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Originally Posted by incisor

the new era copes just fine with my 170 lightforce(s) and i have heavy cable on them....

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Yes undersized cables/wires can cause heat related problems, when indoubt always go up a size in cable/wire.

Poor earth will also cause heat related problems, can cause relays to 'rattle' and either fuse together or burn out.

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Originally Posted by DRS

spotties are 2 x 100w
Fuse that has worked up until now was 15amp.
I also tried a 20amp whcih also blew.

It looks like I should run two relays, one for each. You think that if the supplier supplies a loom for the lights it would be suitable. May be I should send email to lightforce?

Thanks for all replies.

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Most "standard" relays for these are rated at 30 Amps.......my calculator says you 2 x 100 W spots draw16 Amps total so the relay can handle the two of them Ok.....and a 20 Amp fuse should be Ok for protection.

Look for corrosion build up through out the cicuit, especially the grounds.

Hi DRS, just start with using a 20 or 25 amp fuse but make sure your cabling is up to the job.

BTW this is not a plug to get you to buy new cabling, as long as you have used the wire loom that came with the lights, you should be right.

Cheers.

You can sometimes tell what sort of fault it is by the way the fuse has blown.

If you put a new fuse in and it goes with a "crack" this normally indicates a dead short somewhere.

Someone once told me ( never tried it ) that for fault finding shorts, wire in a headlight bulb ( ie in series and in place of the fuse ) . When the short occurs the bulb will glow but the bulb inherently limits the current flowing too.. Saves blowing many fuses to find the problem. As I say sounds plausible but never tried it.

not sure on the 170s, but on the 240s and 140s they have that leetle skeeny wiring coming out of the light mount,perhaps a break in there??Also as they dont have a designated neg or pos wire,(you can use either) that may have something to do with it.???

Spoke to lightforce. The fuse they stated is supplied is a thirty amp fuse. I change the fuse and also changed to a 40 amp relay. All good again.
Thanks for the input. Will also clean earth contacts.
DRS