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Thread: New Disco TD5 - should I be worried?

  1. #1
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    New Disco TD5 - should I be worried?

    So I picked up a 99 TD5 D2 auto last night. Paid $15k for it, 195,000 on the clock. Very nice condition and has the full dealer stamps. Doesn't mean of course that it can't have mechanical problems.....

    Running home down the freeway last night I had the cruise on (what luxury) and was belting along at 100. Turned the cruise off to get off the freeway, but when I put my foot down nothing happened i.e. car just kept coasting along losing speed steadily. A couple of hundred metres later I turned off the off ramp and put my foot down again and the power was back!

    I noticed at this stage that the temp gauge was at the higher end of the white range, which may explain loss of power (i.e. computer cuts the fuel if it detects overheating)? I wouldn't have thought it was to do with the cruising.

    Checked the coolant level this morning and it seemed down (although I have just bought it so I have no idea if it has been going down steadily or what). Pulled the air release plug out of the top radiator hose and gave it a squeeze - hose was mostly empty.

    So it may have got warm because the coolant was down (fine), I am just wondering how much of this is starting to sound like the 'early stage head gasket failure' in the 99 Disco. If so, can any experienced TD5ers tell me

    1. If they have had similar issues
    2. How much has to be done on replacement of the gasket (i.e. do you actually need to mill the head)
    3. How much it's going to cost me!

    I may be hitting the panic button too soon, it could be a good old-fashioned coolant leak from a hose or a sticky thermostat or just about anything it's just that I have come to expect the worst from my Landrovers (so why did I buy another, you ask, well I have no idea. Probably some masochistic streak that owners of reliable cars don't share).

    Anyways, hopefully I can get these teething problems ironed out at not too extravagant a cost. Car drives well apart from all that but I get the willies every time I think about just how much in the way of electronics the car has.

  2. #2
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    Personal i would top up the water. keep an eye on it and see if the power thing happens again. Could be a fault with the cruse control, and both just happened at the same time
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  3. #3
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    maybe check your ECU plug for oil.
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  4. #4
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    Don't panic yet. Top up the coolant with water. Don't forget the bleed screw in the top radiator hose! If you put coolant in make certain it is the right one and not the Glycole stuff. With toping it up also have the heater on full and run it till warm and check again.
    ECU may also have just gone into limp mode beifly or similar.
    Check the Oil in the ECU plug like the others said.
    If it is the head then yes big $$$$$
    Bolts, gaskets ect around $800
    Machining shouldn't need doing but if it is then most places will tell you it can't be done. Don't accept that answere as a new head is $4500 or anywhere from $1200 to $2500 second hand.

  5. #5
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    Radiator leak?? Has the radiator ever been changed. As they are alloy most of them would have a leak buy now. If you can see have a look for evidence along the bottom of the radiator of discoured water/coolant leaking.

    Any water evidnece on the engine dip stick?

    Perhaps just monitor it in case it was a freak glitch with the throttle, if pain persists see your doctor (mechanic)


    JB

  6. #6
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    The dream continues

    No water on the dipstick or the inside of the oil filler cap.

    A look inside the coolant reservoir this morning reveals what looks like traces of oil floating on the top of the coolant!!

    Any recommendations for LR mechanics in Perth (preferably relatively close to the city)? I usually go to British Parts & Service centre but they hate TD5s with a passion. Rovatech maybe (Bentley)?

    I haven't had the power loss except for that one moment. I am most worried about the coolant issue. I put in 2 litres this morning (water only just to get the system topped up), which overfilled the reservoir. I didn't run it to bleed out the top hose but I will try that again later.

    Fingers crossed. I rang the previous owner and he very kindly agreed to pay for the repairs (whatever it took - I did drop the mention of the head gasket into the fray!).

  7. #7
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    Hi
    Contact Kie4(Richard) via PM he did mine,was working for Southerns now a holden dealer,does private jobs after hours.
    If your lucky its the plastic dowels in the head,they deteriorate and allow the head to move.
    If you get it early no machining should be needed.
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  8. #8
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    I would suggest that you have the beginings of a leaking oil cooler. bit of a pain to sort but not insurmountable if you get it befor it dumps your oil into the coolant or vice versa.

    A static pressure test of the system on a warmed up engine will reveal whats what.
    Dave

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by George130 View Post
    Don't panic yet. Top up the coolant with water. Don't forget the bleed screw in the top radiator hose! If you put coolant in make certain it is the right one and not the Glycole stuff. With toping it up also have the heater on full and run it till warm and check again.
    ECU may also have just gone into limp mode beifly or similar.
    Check the Oil in the ECU plug like the others said.
    If it is the head then yes big $$$$$
    Bolts, gaskets ect around $800
    Machining shouldn't need doing but if it is then most places will tell you it can't be done. Don't accept that answere as a new head is $4500 or anywhere from $1200 to $2500 second hand.
    Tried bleeding out the air from the top radiator hose but I had the engine running for about 6 or 8 minutes with air coming out the whole time and no end in sight. How long should this take? Depends on how much the system has drained down I suppose.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by owoodland View Post
    Tried bleeding out the air from the top radiator hose but I had the engine running for about 6 or 8 minutes with air coming out the whole time and no end in sight. How long should this take? Depends on how much the system has drained down I suppose.
    To bleed properly, the reservoir has to be unclipped and held high with the bleed screw removed. Wait until no more bubbles appear - they keep coming with some coolant for quite a while. Do not have the engine running.

    The heater controls have nothing to do with the coolant flow - it permanently flows through the heater matrix.

    Good luck.
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