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Hmmm, found on Outer the same as the comment re the centrifuge and the air filter, but not the oil filter. Now I don't know where that is.Quote:
Originally Posted by ladas
Why is the oil filter different to the air filter in terms of filtering if the media is the same?
Basically because the air filter media is dealing with 'new' supply each time, new air - new dust, and when they get to a certain level they reach total effeciancy - whereas with an oil filter they are recirculating the 'same old' - oil being recycled over and over again, collecting carbon build - up sludge - burnt oil, they get clogged and more clogged over time - finally causing oil starvation over time - and more seroius - stratification / distillation - where oil thins to a point where it fails to be an effective lubricant. They can in worst case senarios break down due to the pure weight of contaminants - and all of a sudden an oil journel or a big end bearing is hit with a big LUMP of solids, oil residues, maybe even swarf and mixed with broken down filter media. Blocks oil journels, roots bearings.........should I go on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
Air filters when new let too much 'stuff' through when new if you were really critical, and when they start to become dust/dirt bound they reduce the amount of ***** that goes through to the engine. Delicate balance between full efficiency and too clean and too dirty.............however when they get too dirty you normally know - missing, running rich etc..
A blocked/clogged oil filter won't say anything ------ until it's tooooooo late
'Scuse me do you hav $5.5 k for a new engine '
An oil filter is $20 - $30 - why would you risk your engine for that. My opinion - it just isn't worth the risk.
That all sounds pretty solid to me, but we're talking about changing oil filters at prior to service intervals in comparison to service intervals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
Yes but if you are changing oils prior to service intervals - then you should also change the filter.
If you do not remove the filter when you change the oil you will have about 1 ltr of the old oil in the system.
You add 5 ltrs of brand spanking new expensive engine oil that you know is good, and then by not removing/replacing the filter you contaminate your new oil by 20% by leaving the old, dirty stuff in there.
Fine if you want to leave the oil in to follow the dates for change - be it 10, 20 k or whatever..........but some people prefer to change at 5k - which is fine, but why bugger it up by leaving up to 20% of the old stuff in there.
If you are going to change the oil change all of it, and to get almost all of it out you need to remove the filter and the 1 ltr of oil that is in there. So why put a dirty filter ack on.
Not wanting to seem ..eerrrmmm hard line ...............but if you don;t change the oil filter you are only doing half the job.
The centrifuge is slighty different - that should be changed as and when it is dirty. ...however you'll find by changing oil and main oil filter the need to replace the paper filters in the centrifuge could be reduced.
Cool, that sounds sensible. Thanks for this Ladas, my thoughts have just been revised.
Sorry to run this thread off on a tangent, but I have seen several references now to the cost of replacement Td5 engines, one of which was, from memory (can't find the post) in the region of $18500. This is a scary number.:( Just how much is a new motor?Quote:
Originally Posted by ladas
thanks guys i gues i will be changing the filter. how much would u think i should spend and should i just get the filter from the landy place i get it suerviced. what money would i pay roughly so i can organize that as well cheers chaps.
The oil filter is about $30.00, the Rotor filter about $35.00Quote:
Originally Posted by fatcat
Just checked my price list, $17 379.30 :eek: .Quote:
Originally Posted by td5110