What else when changing the clutch?

**MickG** · 28th March 2007, 01:17 PM

Okay my Manual '99 TD5 D2 with 156K on it is going in to the garage in a couple of weeks for a general service but is mainly having the spiggot bearing thingy changed and also having a new clutch fitted. I am lead to believe that the gear box has to come out or at least be taken apart for this transplant so my questions is, what else should I ask my mechanic to do whilst he is in there or in the general vacinity of that part of the car?

Also, are there many options on which new clutch to fit or is a heavy duty clutch simply a heavy duty clutch in anyone's language?

Thanks in advance, Mick

**abaddonxi** · 28th March 2007, 01:29 PM

Think the 130 clutch is heavier than 110/90.

Cheers,
Simon

**Scouse** · 28th March 2007, 01:54 PM

Originally Posted by abaddonxi

Think the 130 clutch is heavier than 110/90.

Cheers,
Simon

They're the same part numbers in the LR parts listing.

**FenianEel** · 28th March 2007, 03:02 PM

Originally Posted by Scouse

They're the same part numbers in the LR parts listing.

Does that mean the box is heavier??

**abaddonxi** · 28th March 2007, 03:16 PM

Originally Posted by Scouse

They're the same part numbers in the LR parts listing.

Oh the rumours you read on the internet.

From Karcraft catalogue:

KT9773 CLUTCH KIT - L/ROVER 200+300 TDI (AP UK)
KT9773## CLUTCH KIT - L/ROVER 200+300 TDI (VALEO)(H DUTY)
KT9773# CLUTCH KIT - L/ROVER 200+300 TDI (VALEO)

Cheers
Simon

**Blknight.aus** · 28th March 2007, 06:42 PM

while its out (they should be dropping the gear box)

remove the flywheel and have the rear main eyeballed for leaks, if its weeping, pay the dollars to have it fixed. new input seal on the gearbox and antisieze on the splines of the shaft... new gearbox mounts and since its not hard to do new engine mounts...

have the flywheel and the pressure plate balance checked and get it ground while its off, ensure that the pressure plate specs are at least more than halfway on the good side of the acceptable wear tollerance when compared to new. new slave cyl seals. All of this will prolong the life of your new clutch...

**justinc** · 28th March 2007, 08:32 PM

This is aTd5 isn't it? AFAIK there is only 1 clutch for them. I would be looking closely at the flywheel for heat cracks etc, as the dual mass units can't be machined, but if there is no shuddering prior to and the clutch wasn't slipping, then bung a new clutch and spigot in and you are on the way. Don't forget to ask them to grease all the pivot points and clutch pushrod etc.
Just as an aside, I have had more succes with the AP borg and Beck kits for the Tdi than the Valeo ones.
JC

**Frenchie** · 29th March 2007, 08:32 AM

Originally Posted by justinc

I would be looking closely at the flywheel for heat cracks etc, as the dual mass units can't be machined, JC

And big dollars if it needs to be replaced I believe.

**MickG** · 29th March 2007, 08:50 AM

Cheers for all the input guys, will be handing this thread to my mechanic for his input and i suppose a quote to look at some of the above.

Cheera and will report back, Mick

**MickG** · 29th March 2007, 09:44 AM

Just found out it is going to cost me $1300 to fit a new Valeo clutch so will have to be good reason to spend more $ whilst the gear box is out

Thread: What else when changing the clutch?

Thread Tools

What else when changing the clutch?

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions