To Retro-fit CDL

Hi Ladas
You obviously found the post,it should have the length measurements.
Here are the only pics I found.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/05/213.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/05/214.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/05/215.jpg
A couple of hints
In the uni joints are cheapies,take the roll pins out and replace with a nail or something similar welded in.
The bracket at the bottom that bolts onto the CDL acuator was made from a ford or holden alternator bracket,the slot inside is the perfect size.
Use a nylock nut(M8 from memory) on the acuator,the spring washer and nut I had first vibrated off.
I got the brass handle from Bunnings,had to get a brass tap for $6 or so,you grind the bolt at the top of the lever to suit the tap handle,fit the nut before grinding,it cleans the thread when you undo it.
You need to fit a large washer where the lever comes thru the floor then a hose clamp on the shaft to stop it droping down,you will need to cut a hole in the sound deadener to allow the hoseclamp(or similar clamp) to turn with the lever.
Mine vibrates a bit inside the cab,to fix I put a shocky rubber between the handle and console.
Goodluck
Andrew

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Originally Posted by ladas

Well errrrrrr!!!, it doesn't seem like the electric motor is the way to go, I fitted it all up this morning - but the motor is just too strong, and takes the actautor passed the detent ball groves - so Andy if I could have those pics - they don't show up on the thread any more.

Ladas

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Ladas,
Could you not set up a basic limit switch assembly to shut off the motor in the correct position?
there again there is something to be said for keeping it simple......

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Originally Posted by D110V8D

Like Ladas said Phil, change over the front output housing on the T/case for one that has a center diff, plus make up or buy the levers, grommets etc etc etc....................

I have a complete T/case with levers etc here from a Rangie you are welcome to look at for measurements etc....you can even buy it if you like.;) :D :D :D

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G'day Mick, what do ya drink mate, i may have to bribe you with beer to get a good price.....:D :D :D

Does the Rangie use the same transfer case as the Disco? If so, i would'nt mind checking it out if you're interested in selling. PM me your contact no. and i'll give you a call.

Cheers, Phill

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PhillWilde

Ladas,
Could you not set up a basic limit switch assembly to shut off the motor in the correct position?
there again there is something to be said for keeping it simple......

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Looked at doing this using a couple of micro switches this morning, but the whole thing takes just 45 Degrees to go from off to on, and it's just too little movement required.

For the next approach I have looked at Andy's rigid system, but now I am more leaning towards cables - using two bycycle brake cables to give the 'push - pull' operation that is needed.

I feel that the cable will offer more flexibility in so far as the location of the hand operated actuator.

..................but we'll see won't we. ;)

I like the Bruce Davis mechanical actuator.

Only works in Low Range but thats when it gets serious any way and the series 2 V8 has pretty good traction control and heaps of go.

Nothing to stuff up and works everytime you pull it into Low Range which is when you want 50/50 split any way.
My 2 cents worth any way.

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Piddler

I like the Bruce Davis mechanical actuator.

Only works in Low Range but thats when it gets serious any way and the series 2 V8 has pretty good traction control and heaps of go.

Nothing to stuff up and works everytime you pull it into Low Range which is when you want 50/50 split any way.
My 2 cents worth any way.

Cheers

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Do you have any more details on this, pictures, application, costs etc.,

Guys I recently made an actuator from an aftermarket automatic transmission cable for a B&M shifter.
I mounted it on the floor to the left of the drivers left foot and quite frankly it worked perfectly.
I think the cost was about $70 plus a small piece of steel 75 x 12 x 4mm or thereabouts.
Provided the transfer has the guts for the diff lock in it it is a modification that is cheap simple and reaps enormous rewards in performance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ladas

Looked at doing this using a couple of micro switches this morning, but the whole thing takes just 45 Degrees to go from off to on, and it's just too little movement required.

For the next approach I have looked at Andy's rigid system, but now I am more leaning towards cables - using two bycycle brake cables to give the 'push - pull' operation that is needed.

I feel that the cable will offer more flexibility in so far as the location of the hand operated actuator.

..................but we'll see won't we. ;)

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And you'll be able to attach the brake levers to the steering wheel.

:D:D:D

Cheers
Simon

Talk to cal415 we set up the lever set up in his d2 and now it works not like b4 with the window motor that was a ****e idea fitting that ....

The lever is mounted to the tranny tunnell near the hi/lo lever looks stock have a talk to mick he will have pics and will know were to get the lever

Cheers

Chris

best way is the d2a lever - cheapest way is landandys way :)

The d2a lever will set you back about 500 bucks landed, Redback just baught one recently he could probobly give a better price idea then me, i got mine a long while back. I had the AMV setup and i wasnt happy with it, so i got rid of it in favour of the mechanical setup. Best bit is its genuine and built for that purpose. being a LR thing it looks right at home.

As for the bruce davis one, i breifly had one of those too, no one told me it only worked in low range! for me thats useless we use high range CDL all the time on the beach.