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Thread: To Retro-fit CDL

  1. #1
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    To Retro-fit CDL

    Hi all,
    I'm looking for a bit of advice. I've a Series 2 Disco with no CDL on the transfer case and am looking into my options to reinstate it. The two options that have been suggested are
    - to replace the transfer case with a diff lock equiped version (quoted $1900 for parts only and have to fit myself, includes low km transfer case, seal and diff lock/high low range lever from 2003 D2).
    - to replace only the front output housing and fit an aftermarket activation system or make up a lever activation system. I have been quoted $250 for the front output housing from a D1.

    Pretty obvious which option i would like to go with.....
    Is it as simple as just changing the front output housing and if so, what is involved in doing so? I'm a mech fitter so have the skills but am new to owning/working on a Landy.

    Cheers, Phill

  2. #2
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    Ladas is about to do this and was looking for a voulonteer to help.
    see this link,you may be able to help with his and then he could help you do yours!!!!
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=36148
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhillWilde View Post
    Hi all,
    I'm looking for a bit of advice. I've a Series 2 Disco with no CDL on the transfer case and am looking into my options to reinstate it. The two options that have been suggested are
    - to replace the transfer case with a diff lock equiped version (quoted $1900 for parts only and have to fit myself, includes low km transfer case, seal and diff lock/high low range lever from 2003 D2).
    - to replace only the front output housing and fit an aftermarket activation system or make up a lever activation system. I have been quoted $250 for the front output housing from a D1.

    Pretty obvious which option i would like to go with.....
    Is it as simple as just changing the front output housing and if so, what is involved in doing so? I'm a mech fitter so have the skills but am new to owning/working on a Landy.

    Cheers, Phill
    Phil, that is exactly what I am doing - right now, I have purchased a DI front housing, I have stripped it down, taken all the right measurements to ensure it's up to the job (fortunately it is), and a few weeks after easter I am (with the help of some fellow AULROians after bribes with beer, food etc.,) I am planning to do the changeover.

    I bought a seal/gasket/o ring kit from British 4WD (cost about $70.00) including the rear gearbox seal and the gaskets needed for the exhaust.

    I am currently working on the 'actuator' - after falling over when quoted $850.00 + just for the actuator, I have decided to make my own, using a window motor, and a bit of 'engineering'. I have all the templates cut out of perspex, and I will have the local steel fabricators make it up for me next week.

    I will be updating the project in the projects and tuitions forum (though this won't be a tuition - as I am learning as I go on) but I might find some areas that may be tricky, I may totally cock something up (quite likely)

    Have a look at the start, there are a few picks - you may be interested.

  4. #4
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    Like Ladas said Phil, change over the front output housing on the T/case for one that has a center diff, plus make up or buy the levers, grommets etc etc etc....................

    I have a complete T/case with levers etc here from a Rangie you are welcome to look at for measurements etc....you can even buy it if you like.
    Cheers

    Mick

    1999 Land Rover 110 Defender TD5 Cab Chassis
    1985 Land Rover 110 County 4.6 EFI V8
    1993 Track Trailer camper

  5. #5
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    Hi Ladas
    You could make a mechanical acuator like I made for mine.You need a bracket to bolt to the acuator some socket set extensions and a pair of socket set uni-joints.you end up with a handle next to the hilo that you twist,very effective and easy to do.
    If you look in the archives,the thread to find is "My DIY CDL broke itself" or similar.There were pics and measurements in that post.If the pics are no longer there yell out I will try and get you some.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    Hi Ladas
    You could make a mechanical acuator like I made for mine.You need a bracket to bolt to the acuator some socket set extensions and a pair of socket set uni-joints.you end up with a handle next to the hilo that you twist,very effective and easy to do.
    If you look in the archives,the thread to find is "My DIY CDL broke itself" or similar.There were pics and measurements in that post.If the pics are no longer there yell out I will try and get you some.
    Andrew
    Thanks cock, but I think I will plough ahead with the electric acuator - less mods to make inside the car.

  7. #7
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    If you have an auto Td5 you will need to retro fit a Hi/Lo ratio switch to allow the throttle remapping to occur or lose that functionality. The S1 output housing wont have that.
    _________________________
    1996 D1 V8 - gone
    2002 D2 Td5 ES- gone but still running elsewhere
    2013 D4 SDV6 HSE - gone
    2023 Defender 110SE D300

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ladas View Post
    Thanks cock, but I think I will plough ahead with the electric acuator - less mods to make inside the car.

    THANKS COCK ?? Is this like a typing "Terrets syndrome" thing

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by duff View Post
    THANKS COCK ?? Is this like a typing "Terrets syndrome" thing

    No just British cologual slang.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    Hi Ladas
    You could make a mechanical acuator like I made for mine.You need a bracket to bolt to the acuator some socket set extensions and a pair of socket set uni-joints.you end up with a handle next to the hilo that you twist,very effective and easy to do.
    If you look in the archives,the thread to find is "My DIY CDL broke itself" or similar.There were pics and measurements in that post.If the pics are no longer there yell out I will try and get you some.
    Andrew
    Well errrrrrr!!!, it doesn't seem like the electric motor is the way to go, I fitted it all up this morning - but the motor is just too strong, and takes the actautor passed the detent ball groves - so Andy if I could have those pics - they don't show up on the thread any more.

    Ladas

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