Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Dune - Rust hole 001

  1. #1
    Dante Guest

    Dune - Rust hole 001

    Hi guys,
    I am sure this might seem like one of those "duh" questions to you, but I thought I get a scoop of thoughts:

    Found a rust hole just bigger than a 50c piece in the steel frame of the rear driver side door.



    I cleaned it out as much as I could, grinded the edges a bit so I don't get cut and blew all the flages out with an air gun.

    Now I just wanted to get your thoughts on what is the best way to fix it and what materials to use. Just keep in mind I don't want to take the door off ;-)

    1) My thought is to put some rust converter in and repeat the process a few times.
    2) Then I though to put a coat of zinc based coat on it - in the hole and outside.
    3) Next step would be to just fill the hell out of it - not sure what filler would be best ... don't want to use fiber glass
    4) sand it back a little bit (doesn't need to be pretty). What grade do I use. I found that even 120 can take off some amount of metal (I found that when cleaning up the towbar).
    5) leave it at that - or do you suggest I should paint over the filler? Don't care about the looks.

    I doesn't look like anything to worry about, just needs to get done. I want to prevent for the rust to have more fun in there.

    There are some other smaller patches I am cleaning up, the majority just superficial, one or two tiny holes, so I'd like to use above method and materials on that as well.

    Any suggestions and thoughts for the newbie are welcome.

  2. #2
    lokka Guest
    Well my thouhts would be to treat the rusted area and do both inside and out with a good rust converter then fill the hole with bog and then treat the door with rust preventive ...

    Or if you have access to a welder cut the offending rust out then make a patch to fit neat in the hole you now have and weld it in taking care to not heat the area too much a wet rag is your friend and if ya guna weld on ya truck have a assistant handy with either the garden hose or fire extinguisher and dont forget to dissconect ya battery ...

    then once welded grind off prime with rust preventive paint and trest the inside of the door frame to a good preventive by drilling holes in the top of the door frame and tipping in sum tectyl or other rust preventive

    cheers

    Chris

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Forty minutes closer to the hills in a house the bank is kind enough to let me live in
    Posts
    1,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Looking at the size of that and the grot inside the door I reckon that's got to be welded and repaired properly. Once welded, I'd look at using something like this:

    http://www.fyshwick.autobarn.com.au/...nav_top_id=114

    I've just stumbled across this stuff and it works REALLY well. Seems a heap better than the old phosphoric acid conversion process.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    205
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you just want to do it relatively cheaply.

    Once loose rust is removed, treat the area with a rust converter (plenty come in small bottles) and then coat inside/out with an inorganic/zinc rich primer, common retail products are called Cold Gal etc and come in a spray can. Zinc rich primers have the advantage they still offer good protection for small spots that get missed when coating. Don't put Zinc rich primers on thick.

    If you jut want to bog it up, cut a small square piece of tin/metal that will fit through the hole at its angle, Drill a hole in the tin and tie a piece of string to it. Feed the square tin through the rust hole and once through carefully pull it in position to cover the rust hole from the inside. Push the plate back slightly and use any flexible adhesive, mastic, liquid nails whatever takes your fancy there, pull the plate back into position, let adhesive cure. Then bog and sand smooth, spray some more zinc over it so it looks tidy (tidy enough anyway).

    It’s a cheap repair (not structual though) and the material used will do all the little spots on the vehicle.
    Technically you should always top coat over primers, but if you don’t care about the looks, then I prolly wouldn’t bother.

    But, do look at why the spots have rusted. Is it simply dodgy Land Rover coachwork or is water getting in and can’t get out?

    Is that the bottom corner of the door top? Are Defender doors still 2 piece and they have simply welded them together and clad the alum skin over it? If so, I’d be looking at removing the door trim and see if you can’t drill some holes between the 2 door halves. They will act as both drain holes if it’s water and as breathers for the closed in section if it’s moisture/condensation.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Toowoomba, Queensland
    Posts
    1,863
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Looks like poor drainage from the bottom of the rear window (it's a Series 111, DarrenR). Mine had extended stainless drain tubes fitted by a previous owner because it is a known weakness. While you have the door apart for the fix and to check the frame under the glass, think about enlarging the drains.
    Steve

    2003 Discovery 2a
    In better care:
    1992 Defender
    1963 Series IIa Ambulance
    1977 Series III Ex-Army
    1988 County V8
    1981 V8 Series 3 "Stage 1"
    REMLR No. 215

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    205
    Total Downloaded
    0
    oh ok, dunno why I had Defender in my head. Yeah it's a bad spot for early Series landies, as you said definately clear out and enlarge drain holes.

    Am I right in seeing this is the two halves of the door welded together?

    Best regards
    DarrenR

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Toowoomba, Queensland
    Posts
    1,863
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by DarrenR View Post
    oh ok, dunno why I had Defender in my head. Yeah it's a bad spot for early Series landies, as you said definately clear out and enlarge drain holes.

    Am I right in seeing this is the two halves of the door welded together?

    Best regards
    DarrenR
    Yep, that's how they are. Neater welding than on mine - must have been a Wednesday. The front doors are bolted but the rears are one piece.
    Steve

    2003 Discovery 2a
    In better care:
    1992 Defender
    1963 Series IIa Ambulance
    1977 Series III Ex-Army
    1988 County V8
    1981 V8 Series 3 "Stage 1"
    REMLR No. 215

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Warburton, Victoria
    Posts
    4,693
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Cut it out, weld a plate in and drill a hole to squirt Fishoil or similar in it.

    Then put a grommet in the hole.

    you will never stop it rusting, but you can slow it down.

    Grommet has the same problem....

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yinnar South, Vic
    Posts
    9,943
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by sclarke View Post
    Cut it out, weld a plate in and drill a hole to squirt Fishoil or similar in it.

    Then put a grommet in the hole.

    you will never stop it rusting, but you can slow it down.

    Grommet has the same problem....
    If you put grommet in a grommet, would the whole vehicle just dissappear Be like folding itself inside out

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yass NSW
    Posts
    7,239
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    If you put grommet in a grommet, would the whole vehicle just dissappear Be like folding itself inside out


    Best do it right before you are looking for a whole new door.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!