swapping gearbox what do I need and ...

best of luck, havent had to pull the box out of a rangie, diso, series, countys defenders and perentines yes but no rangie yet..

how about some pics along the lines of a howto so all us couch experts can have a laugh?

My personal preference for all, when i can, is to drop the gearbox down , remove the shifters and roll it out from underneath...(seperate tcase first)

Take your old snatch strap, thread it across the chassis members and have 2 mates hold it tight while you lower it (coffin bearer style) on a hydraulic trolly jack with an adaptor made to suit the box.

Goodluck Steve
Make sure you post a few pics.
We are looking at a 86 Rangie on saturday to replace the dead Trytoo.
Just exploring the "Landrover Experience":D :D :D :D
Andrew

You'll be right. I've done a clutch in a Defender with little more than a couple trolley jacks and a ratchet strap over the roof and through the doors.:cool:

Be careful though. I nearly dropped the gearbox/tcase assy a couple times while doin it.

I admit it's not the best way to do it....but it was the only way at the time........and it proves it is possible.

Good luck.:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

drop the gearbox down , remove the shifters and roll it out from underneath...(seperate tcase first)

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I haven't even studied the "book" yet, how slack am I !
But apparently the early rangies, (up to and inc 81) they have a combined transfercase and gearbox.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Goodluck Steve
Make sure you post a few pics.
We are looking at a 86 Rangie on saturday to replace the dead Trytoo.

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Yes i'll try and post a few pics. probably the ones of what not to do and what I stuffed up :D
I like the rangies not too sure about all the electronics in the later models though? If you get one that has been looked after I think they'll out last almost anything.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by D110V8D

with little more than a couple trolley jacks and a ratchet strap over the roof and through the doors.:cool:

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Holy $h!t ! you are a hero :D I would have loved to see pics of that


I was going to hire a hoist @ $45 a day.
In one day I would have to remove two gearboxes and renew all the seals etc then re-install it . So seeing as my first time I think it would be two days at least for me. So $90 for a hoist. I have decided to buy a hoist for $250 then sell it when I'm done and there will be no hurry to get it finished.
Either way still cheaper than the 1000-1500 for a mechanic to do it and I get a good look at the mechanics of the rangie that are mostly hidden so I can inspect them.

I'm picking up the parts tomorow arvo then get the hoist Sat AM then I can begin. $300 difference in parts from one supplier to another. Bit of a saving eh, pays to shop around.

The only thing I was thinking about was the size of the hoist are they a standard size and if so is a standard big enough to reach into the rangie ?
I guess I'll find out

Hey there any updates? what sort of hoist did you end up with? I have been told a 500 kilo engine hoist is more than enough.

I am looking at replacing my knackkerd 4 speed with a ZF auto shortly.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2007/04/39.jpg

well actually it's been really slow going.
I'm, (hope) going to get the box out tomorrow, oops it's 1:50am so I guess it's later today :-)

I'm real glad I didn't hire a hoist I didn't realise how long it would take.
As I'm stripping the donor as I go I get a bit side tracked.
Today I was going to remove the box but instead ended up putting together my new hoist, removed the air & water radiators, removed half the exhaust, all the relays, half the power steering system, tow bar, lights and painted my trailer.

All up a busy day but still haven't removed the box :-)
The hoist I got is 1000kg or about a ton, why it's fitted with an 8 ton piston god only knows but at least the piston won't give out.
The weight it carries depends on how far out the hook arm is but I would think 500kg would be more than enough for a gearbox.

Now all I have to do is renew the seals n stuff and repeat the process for my running rangie and strip the running gear from the doner.
No major problems up to now just time consuming. Apart from a very rusted together exhaust, (hence only half removed).

hmmmm wonder how far I'll get tomorrow.

Steve one other thing u should check is the pump in the gearbox u are going to put back in.
It is deep iside the bellhousing on the front of the gearbox and it has some little bolts around the cover to hold it. You will need a gasket only to reass.
There is a gear that has a square shoulder drive and this can become rounded. Also there is a mod that needs to be done to a bakelite thick bush assy that will have one hole in it, also in the pump section, you need to slot this to allow more oil to circulate. This mod was in the Range rover club of Victoria Torque magazine and I know from rovertech and british parts here in perth that they all were doing it when these rangies were more popular years ago.
I have done it to my 78 model and my 82 when I did the boxes.

Make sure u tie the motor up as it will fall backwards with no box I usually rope up the front pully to the front crossmember

Regarding the 2 top bolts on the gearbox use very long extension bars on the socket so that it comes out behind the transfer case handbrake, with a universal joint at the bolt end and someone (wife/mate etc) to hold the socket firmly on while u undo, has worked everytime for me.

Make sure also u have plenty of sideways clearance so u can move the hoist and gearbox sideways out of vehicle.

Also as others have said u must replace your rear main seal 5 mins work for no aggrivation for the future. It will just tap back in without u having to undo anything.
Replace your clutch pressure plate and thrust bearing. If the flywheel is slightly scored clean it up, if it is bad have it machined.
Check also the ball on which the clutch fork sits as this can come loose and has to be repaired, or use the bell housing from which ever is good.

Make sure u have a felt washer for the gearlever ball to stop vibration and loosness of the gear lever when u assemble.
Its a pity I am so busy trying to organise my work auction or I would come and assist.
Ring me if u need some help /advice and I will try to as best I can.
I also have a semi dismantled 4 speed box here with a good bellhousing and gear pump drive, if u need.
good luck as it is quite a daunting task if u have never done it, slow and steady and u will win
regards
Brad:eek:

I've removed the g/box in my 79 Rangie. I'm a first-timer too. Dropped mine down using two jacks on the g/box and one under the sump (can't remember why!) The snatch strap "coffin" idea sounds good, as mine nearly rolled off a few times...

Someone told me to change the spiggot bush so i did that. Only $15 and was told they can cause probs. Used a broken hack saw blade to (carefully) cut most of the way thru, then break it with a screwdriver.

Mine is still noisy. Wish i had changed the g/box main bearing while i was there but it needed an alignment tool to put the shaft back. Looking back, i'm sure i could have thought up something to do this!

It was a slow process. Got a mate to do output bearings and seals for me. Exhaust manifold studs were a time waster: Had to grind a few off and get someone to put new ones on after!

Hope all goes well...

Hi All
Thanks for the advice.
I finished removing the gear box from the donor today. Bloody long job.
I have attached a few pics.

I initially used the hoist at 250kg position because it wouldn't reach but after removing the sidestep there was no problem and used it at 500kg. The 250kg would have held it easily though.

No major issues at all just fidly and time consuming.
The hardest part was probably removing the dashboard.

oops too many pics.
the last pic is the box after a bit of a clean